Works great. See the link below

Here is a link that might be useful: Led recessed guide discussion

David,

Yes, I have been reading it but those were mostly questions from people who were just installing them, not long-term users.

Could you please clarify the "35 lumen per sq ft" recommendation for me? Does it depend on the ceiling height?

Is it the same for 8 ft vs. 9 ft ceiling room? I have the latter.

Thanks!

The 35 lumen rule is just a simple means to estimate the number of cans necessary in a kitchen space and which should provide sufficient margin for ceiling height differences between 7' to 10', dimmers.

It does not account for ceiling height.

There are more sophisticated calculations that can be used.

Some models may cause more glare eg - the older generation Halo LEDs vs the Cree CR6

Thank you!

Where can I find those "more sophisticated calculations"?

I am willing to "do the math".

Also, I have read several times about shadows in UCL and people moving the fixtures to fix that. Can it be figured out before installing the lights? I am totally over budget and don't want to pay twice for installation. :-)

We started out with Halogens in the Kitchen, 8, 50 watt cans on dimmer.
Switched later to 35 Watt Halogens still on same dimmer.
Lights ok, but got "Off color" when dimmed, --orange ish---

Replace the 35 watt Halogens with LED's from Home Depot, (Floods). Installed in the same cans, same dimmer, no buzzing, flickering etc and they stay the same color when dimmed.

Save us a lot of power and heat,

Here's the "Math"

8 lamps x 50 watts = 400 watts (50 Watt Halogens)
8 lamps x 8 watts = 64 watts (LED's)

Thats assuming they were never dimmed but they always were as are the LED's now.

We still have Halogen and Xenon under counter lights, but I will eventually replace those too.

We will eventually have all LED's in our house. Just finished master bath, removed two, 40 watt florescent lights and replaced with four, 10 Watt Led's, half the power and at least twice the light

Gary

Elena,

Do you mean something like the following URL?
If I had had the time, I would have adapted code for light rendering.

UCL shadows.
Did you read the UCL continuation thread?

Are you intending to use direct wire or low voltage bars to form contiguous light zones?

Here is a link that might be useful: calculating illumination levels