You can always make room for your covered plugmold, using an extra end panel--on both ends for symmetry. That way you have enough thickness for the cover.

My advice is, if you're using plugmold, don't hide it per se. You can paint the housing, even woodgrain it to match, before it's wired, and use similar color recepticals (dark or light). If you tuck it right up under the edge of the countertop it'll be visible, but just kind of there. Maybe extend the counter a little.

For the garbage disposer switch, there's always an air switch. which you can get in all kinds of colors, so one can pretty much disappear. That's mounted where you like in the counter in the vicinity of the faucet. If you really don't want to see it, you can mount the switch inside the cabinetry under the sink. Lots of people do.

Not sure I understand your last question. If you mean you want to put light switches inside the drawer, I'm sure it's possible. Depending on your building code you might have to make them double switched runs with one switch by the door and one in the drawer, but you'd still be able to just use the island ones if you wanted.

The biggest problem I see is that I think you're using IKEA. You can customize the heck out of anything, and people do with IKEA, but some of these hidden things are easier to accomplish gracefully with wood, and with things that are built to the purpose. Before you design yourself into a corner, you'd best find a carpenter, electrician, or cabinet installer, who can do these customizations for you, and design them all ahead of time, on paper, so that you'll be able to know exactly what it'll be like and what materials you'll need. For instance, my sinks are hidden by aprons when you open the cabinets/drawers in my custom cabinets. The apron would provide a place to mount a switch. You don't get those with IKEA unless you add them. Same for your lightswitches. You'll need some kind of block inside the cabinet for to mount the boxes in, as well as access for the wiring to get up from the floor and into the cabinet.

Alternatively, you could put the main light switches on a wall, and have radio controlled remote switches in the drawer, so long as they'll work through the stone, metal and whatever of the island for the signal to get to the receiver.

Plllog thanks for responding...I realize talking about electrical outlets isn't nearly as fun as the design. Our last house when we remodeled we were able to incorporate a pony wall that fit with the support beams. This remodel it would look awkward.

We were going to use the plugmold on the sides of the island. I "saw" a black plugmold on dark cabinets and it was hard to even notice. I suppose on the DW side I was concerned with enough room w/o using any additional panel on which would make the island longer yet.

I've seen both kinds of garbage disposal switches but wondered how others liked them, or didn't.

The light switches though seem the most difficult to hide. There is no wall space reasonably close to put the overhead light switch on, so the island is it. We thought of putting in on the side of the island, which the end cabinet will be drawers. I don't know how much room remains in a full extension drawer in the back to house a double switch. I've seen a lot of nifty electrical ideas and thought there may be something out there for switches too.

The carpenter, electrician and cabinet installer will likely all be one, my DH. Like I said though, I've found some really clever ways of placing the outlets that my DH said he has no problems doing. It would be nice to know though how well things like the in the cabinet garbage disposal switch functions.

Can I assume this is all DIY and there will be no electrical inspect (no permit) when completed?

Depends on how thick you end panel is.

If it's 3/4" then forget it. There will be no room for the wire and more importantly nothing holding up the c-top if the plugmold is right under the countertop.

Weedmeister, whether we end up doing everything ourselves or not (I want to hire some of this out if I can find anyone I'm comfortable with), it WILL be up to code and pass inspections.

My DH and I were just looking at things and forgot how much "tighter" the island will be and we both had no problems with using the switch on the wall that is about 2-3 steps further as the only switch on that side of the kitchen? With an open floor plan, I'm not sure how to even designate where the kitchen begins. That said I'm not sure if that would be up to code. Does anyone know how close an overhead light switch needs to be from an "entrance" to a room? The other entrance of the kitchen now has none and is a PITA to walk 15' to turn the overhead light off and then back again to the dinette. We're planning adding this additional switch but that would not need to involve the island.

I've attached a recent thread that includes lots of feedback on air switches although that's not what the thread is strictly about.

I have a peninsula with an unavailable wall b/c it crosses a support beam that no electrical can go through. I just closed my eyes and stuck a light switch on the end of of the peninsula. I can understand wanting to "hide" outlets required by code (I did this) but I wanted family and guests to know where this light switch is. It's not pretty and I didn't use an end panel on that particular end but it's essential to the function of my kitchen. The convenience outweighs the look in this matter. But it sounds like your island end is a bank of drawers?

Here is a link that might be useful: air switch feedback

Owls4me thanks for the link. I would definately consider at air switch for the disposal. IMO it looks pretty nonconpicuous (sp) and very convenient.

Antss, my DH is unfamiliar with plugmold but he thought he could use conduit between the DW and end panel with the plugmold on the exterior panel. The plugmold would be under the 1.5" overhang of the counter. I'm not sure if I know what you mean by holding up the countertop.

Have you heard of Sillites self contained receptacles? We are planning on using them for our island outlets. If the following link works it should take you right to the page you need. http://www.sillites.com/newconstruction.php or you can just search Sillites. The website has a link to where you can buy the outlets. I think they look much nicer than regular outlets.

We love having the airswitch especially on the island where we didn't want a lot of clutter. Ours is right by the faucet handle. My hand is usually around there anyway to adjust the water when I'm turning the disposal on or off. I've been places with the switch inside the sink cabinet and I don't like having to open and close the door with damp hands when using it.

Sorry I misunderstood the point of some of your questions earlier. :)

Code is different everywhere. I was required to have a light switch by an exterior door, but I already had them planned by the two interior doors, so I don't know if those were also required.

Antss brings up another important point. Besides engineering the switches and outlets, you need to figure out how you're going to support your countertop, if you're going to need brackets or counterbalance or posts.

When trying to find wall space for a switch to independently operate the light over the sink, my electrician suggested an air switch for the light. I didn't know that was possible, but I guess so. A setup like that might look funky for your kitchen, but it's an idea.

I bought a couple of sillites for my kitchen also. They won't be installed until next week, but I'm so happy not to have to use a honkin' duplex outlet where I don't want one. Code in my area allows sillites and says there just needs to be an outlet in certain areas but they don't have to be duplex.