If you're going with one or the other, I would lean towards the one with the peninsula because I just don't see the point or the use of that little island off by itself in the middle of the floor. I would not have the peninsula stick as far out as the island does, however--I mean leave more room between the end of the peninsula and the door--so it feels more open.

If you're still flexible and your budget allows some choice in where the sink and range go, then I would very seriously reconsider this layout. I don't think anything DRAMATIC needs to change but here's what isn't working for me: The counterspace between the range and sink is very small (and that angled upper cabinet between range and sink is NOT helping you; it makes it harder to work in that space because the cabinet is almost right in your face). You just don't have enough workspace around your range.

I think the solution to that is to sort of switch the sink and range. I say "sort of" because I don't mean to say that you should put the range exactly where the sink is; I would put it on that same wall but put it between the windows, and put your hood where those upper cabinets are. (That will make venting it easier and cheaper, too, since you'll have the hood on an exterior wall). That will give you a good amount of counterspace to the left of the range AND to the right (on your peninsula--no matter what you do with the sink and range, the peninsula is a better idea than the island).

Then put the sink where the range is in your current plan, and the dishwasher where the sink is (off center--leave a foot and a half or so between that corner and the dishwasher so that there is room for you to stand in front of the sink while loading or unloading the dishwasher). This will give you a much more satisfactory amount of counter space between your sink and your range, and it will also mean that if there are other people in the kitchen (for instance, if you make the peninsula have an overhang so people can sit on the other side of it), you will be able to easily talk to them while you cook.

I'm not a layout person, but I think that in trying to decide between a nice door style vs. a nice wood tone, the wood tone is going to have a larger impact on the feel of your kitchen and you should start with what you love. Good luck.

I also wonder what the point is for that island stuck out in the seemingly middle of nowhere with with no connection to your kitchen's work zones.

Neither plan gives you much in the way of counter space. And yet, each plan includes 3 ovens (1 range, 2 wall ovens). That's a lot for your small kitchen (guessing about 10' to 11' wide, length is harder to judge ... 15'-16'?). How are you going to prep all the food to go in those 3 ovens with so little counter space?

Would you like our help planning a kitchen that is functional, suits your needs and fits the space? If so, then provide a floor plan with measurements, etc and we'll help as much as possible. Read the tips in the thread linked below to know what you should provide to us.

If not ... I like ideagirl2's suggestion but it's hard to tell how that will play-out without knowing your kitchen's dimensions. If you don't like her idea, then the peninsula plan probably makes the most sense for your space.

Here is a link that might be useful: New To Kitchens? Posting Pics? Read Me!

Oh, my gosh!!! Yes, yes, yes, I NEED help.

Here are the measurements in the existing kitchen.

Thanks for the room's dimensions but we need more than this. Tell us more about your family, your needs, your wants, the lay-out of your home. If you go to the thread I linked to, you'll see what we need to know.

For instance, how many in your family? Are you the primary cook or does your kitchen need to accommodate more than one cook at a time? What kind of cooking do you do?

Do you want eating space in your kitchen? Table or counter or both? For how many total and at each location?

Where do those doors lead? Can any walls or windows be moved or removed?

What appliances do you want/own that need to fit in the space? Do you really need 3 ovens (range and 2 wall ovens)? CD fridge or full depth?

Is the soffit staying?

I've drawn up a couple of ideas (will post tomorrow, too tired to describe what and why tonight) but they are going to be fairly generic since I'm missing key information. Still, they might help.

btw, the measurements for the top and bottom walls do not match. The top wall length is 207", the bottom is 207.75". That's not going to be that big a deal, just wanted you to know.

Unless you need the island/peninsula for eating, I'd consider continuing the counter around along the wall for more counter space where the sink and range are. If not that then the peninsula.

There isn't a lot of storage space so it would be nice to maximize the space that's available. Two drawers side by side means 2 to 4" less storage space than one drawer across the whole width because of the room for drawer sides and whatever holds the rails in the center. So 3 full width drawers makes more sense to me than 6 drawers.

I expect either cabinet maker can do the wide drawers if you ask for them and the peninsula instead of the island.

Here's the layout. (Not to scale.)

The kitchen has two doors; One goes to the room and the other leads to a foyer. As it stands now, only me and my son live here. However, my mom 'visits' 4-5 days a week. My daughter is away at college but she's home some weekends and during the summer. For the most part, usually, only one person cooks at a time. However, the kitchenand family room are the gathering areas when we have family functions. I usually cook for the holiday. My son and I also regularly eat in the kitchen (he's only 4 so he's still willing to eat with me). ;-)

The current kitchen cabinets follow the soffit areas. There are upper cabinets along the peninsula area which almost divide the kitchen. The peninsula area nowis used for most of the prep. However, whenever more than one person is in the kitchen there's always a roadblock; no one can get by if the refrigerator is open or if someone is traveling from one side of the kitchen to the other (I hope that makes sense.)

I'd like to maintain some type of seating area in the kitchen. I'm open to a counter, table, or banquette. I'd like seating for 4-5 people.

The doors lead to the dining room and the foyer. I don't have the budget to move windows. The window on the peninsula/island side is lower than the base cabinets would be. If moving interior walls can provide me with a better design then I'm guessing that shouldn't be too hard to do.Most of the people in this neighborhood have opened the kitchen to the family room area. I'm not crazy about that idea. I actually like the separation.

I've already purchased the appliances. I'm currently using the stove and refrigerator. The refrigerator is not counter depth. The dishwasher, double oven, and range hood are in the dining room. Long story...but I can't return the appliances at this point. I started off needing a new double oven and purchased that first. When I called out a contractor to buld me a new cabinet for the oven it turned into a kitchen remodel. Most things that I cook end up in the oven. The range is gas and the double ovens are electric.

I had thought about keeping the existing layout but shortening the peninsula. I also thought maybe I could put in booth style seating near that lower window. We watch tv while eating and it would be nice to integrate placement of a tv.

The soffits will more than likely be taken out. I'd like to extend the cabinets to the ceiling.

I'm certainly open to ideas. I know that my layouts have shortcomings.

Thank you guys for all your help!!! ;-)

As I wrote, I started playing with ideas last night but now that you've provided more information, I realize that none of my ideas will work. For instance, I didn't realize you've already purchased the appliances or that your fridge is SD (standard depth) not CD (cabinet depth). So back to the drawing board I go.

I have a few more questions.

Are you willing to opening the wall to the DR and use that for daily seating? I drew up a design with 3 seats at a peninsula (but that was before I saw your note that the window is lower than counter height) but I can't figure a way to get more seats *and* room for all your appliances *and* sufficient counter space to work. Your layout is very challenging with all its limitations.

How large is your DR? Are the windows below counter height? Where are they on the walls?

What size cabinets do your ovens require? Some 30" ovens can go in 30" cabinets, others require 33" cabinets.

Can you buy a new MW? GE makes a small MW called the Spacemaker II that is shallow enough to sit in an upper cabinet. It's 1.0 cu. ft, but since you have 3 ovens, perhaps you can get away with a smaller MW.

How wide is your hood? 30" or 36"?

The dining room window is on the same wall as the kitchen window. It is also below counter height.

I'm not quite sure about the oven cabinet. I believe the cabinemakers did a 33" cabinet.

Yes, I can buy a new microwave. The hood is 30".

Thank you. I really appreciate your help. My space is definitely challenging.

Okay, here are two ideas for your, yes, definitely challenging space.

This one does not move any doorways or take down walls. It does require, as does the next plan, removing soffits. But I think I got you everything you asked for in your kitchen: Seating for 5, a TV, 33" oven cabs, 30" range & hood, SD fridge (estimated 39" cab for this), sink, DW and MW. It does come as the price of ample counter space, though but given your space's limitations and your appliance purchases, it can't be helped.

None of the upper cabinets were large enough for the MW (the GE Spacemaker II that I mentioned above is about 23" wide) so I put it in the pantry. Not a bad place for it. You can either have it on a shelf behind doors or have the cab built to have doors above, doors below but the MW cubby open.

Trash will have to go under the sink. I didn't want to give up storage for a trash pull-out. Plus it would have meant a 6" cab next to the trash cab, which isn't efficient storage.

Measurements are counter to counter or counter to appliance, as best as I can estimate. Measurements between features, such as between fridge cab and sink cab, denote cab sizes. Measurements at the end of a run, such as between range and aisle is counter width, not cab. That cab will actually be 11.5" (1.5" counter overhang). The "2" call-outs between range and BCC (blind corner cabinet) and at the backside of the BCC are spacers. I'm hoping that 2" is enough for spacing between cab fronts and handles and range. If not, then you'd have to shrink the cab to the left of the range and that's already minimal. I tried the range to the left of the window but that put it too close to the seating area and more of a safety hazard, IMO, than having the oven cab there.

This plan gives you 113" of counter with a decent span of 52" between range and oven cab to work. The downside is that you have to cross the aisle that leads to the DR to go from fridge and sink to range. You'll have to get in the habit of shouting "heads up" when you cross this aisle to dump a pot of hot water, etc. Doable but I wanted you to be aware of this.

Oops, I see something that I need to change. I forgot to reduce the size of the pantry from 70" to 55", lengthening the bench by that same amount, so that you have room to slide onto the bench from that side.

The benches are deep enough to have padding (or pillows) on the backs and well as the seats.

Here's the next one:

This one gives you seating for 4, a TV, 33" oven cabs, 30" range & hood, SD fridge (estimated 39" cab for this), sink, DW and MW.

I MOL swapped the range and sink. You gain more space around your range to work. I moved the doorway between DR and kitchen in this plan to give the range area a buffer from traffic going between DR to kitchen. I also decreased the cab to the right of the opening to give you a larger aisle in this area.

The pantry is smaller by 19" but it no longer needs to house the MW. That's in an upper cab on the DR wall.

As with Plan A, trash will have to go under the sink.

This plan gives you 120" of counter, more than Plan A, however the longest span is only 36".

The 40" measurement between table edge and fridge is an estimate. You'd need to have it drawn to scale to double check this. In fact, you need to do that to check the plans overall. There may be requirements based on cab construction, etc, that will affect sizes and dimensions.

So now you see what's possible. If you were willing to give up some of the seating - go with 2, not 4 or 5 - I have another idea for you.

Have you considered frame-less cabs? They would definitely help you make the best use of your small space.

If you're willing to give up some seating in your kitchen, consider these possibilities:

and

Both of these require removing soffits and moving both doorways. Shifting the foyer opening enabled me to move the wall ovens to the end of the fridge/range run, freeing up counter space on the sink side.

The 26" flat screen TV is wall-mounted on a swivel arm - swivel it out for viewing, flat against the wall when it's off.

Both seating areas are conceptual. Both would need to be professional drawn up, especially the 36" round table seating to check my math. You'll also need to check that the clearances I give you are sufficient for you to get in and out of the bench. The circular set-up will likely be easier because you can access it MOL straight on. In a pinch, you could add another seat or two to both, but not on a regular basic. It would be more like cafe seating than dining seating.

If, when your current fridge dies, you replace it with a CD fridge, you gain more clearance between fridge doors and table. I allowed 36" depth for the fridge (inc. doors, not handles).

Plan D gives you - are you ready for this? - 171" of counter space, 57" of it in one long stretch.

Plan E gives you 153" with the same 57" span of counter as in Plan D.

The extra counter space on top of having the appliance spread out more will make your kitchen function better on a daily basis and during family gatherings.

All 4 of my plans likely have more cabinetry than your 2 plans do. Not sure how that affects your costs. Perhaps you can select a simpler door style or forgo planned special treatments, such as glazing, to stretch your dollars farther. You've purchased appliances that imply a hard-working kitchen so it would be nice if you could create a kitchen that meets that goal.

Lisa_a you are absolutely fabulous!!! I'm still taking everything in.

You've solved so many of my problems just by moving over the doors. I've never been crazy about guests being able to see the stove from the living room. Moving the range also allows me to have drawers to store cooking utensils. Moving the pantry near the door makes so much sense because that's the area where the bags always get sat anyway.

I have to talk to my contractor and cabinet maker to see how your wonderful ideas impact my budget.

Oh...happy, happy, happy...

You are very welcome!

btw, I figured out that my estimates for the round table seating are off by 12". Each bench area is 24" deep with about 6" overlap of table over seating. So that bench span needs to be 72" across, not 60". If you like that plan, you'll need to take 12" from the left side, which basically means losing that cab there since you'd only have 6" left, or you can take 6" from each side, which would give you a 27" cab next to the DW and a 12" cab on the other side. What would be very cool is if you could do something like this for seating in that corner:

[

[traditional kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by new york interior designer Robin Muto

Hopefully your contractor and cab maker can help you figure this out. Just be sure to watch your clearances, especially around the table, pantry and fridge, so that you have enough room to move about and work.

Here are a few NKBA recommendations for minimums to help you.
36" for squeeze behind room and 44" for walk past room for aisles with seating. If there are major appliances in the area, more space is better for main paths.
42" aisles for 1-cook kitchens and 48" for 2-cook kitchens.
Allow 24" of width for each diner. 18" leg room for table height seating. The 36" round table is snug, more cafe seating or cocktail seating, than dining but it's more sociable to be looking at each other than sitting in a row.
Allow extra length and width if you have seating on adjacent sides. Two people at the corner can't share the same space.

You can cheat a bit on a few of the minimums. We have 41" between table and island (no seating) for a main aisle in our kitchen and it works for us. Several GWers have had narrower aisles without problems. Rhome410 has 36" between her rangetop and island with a family of 10 and it works for them. I wouldn't, however, want to go less than the 24" seating width. Don't assume you can design with less than minimums without doing a mock-up of the space and making sure it will work, that you have enough room to move about, open cab doors & drawers, fridge doors, etc, without cursing and wishing you had just a few more inches.

Good luck and please keep us posted!

On plans C, D, & E, I forgot to change the measurement for the bottom right hand wall when I moved the doorway. It should be 60" not 69.5".

Wasn't sure if your doorway openings included the molding around each. I designed as if they did. If your measurements don't, you'll need to adjust a few cab sizes to allow for molding.

Had another idea for you.

This one puts the range and sink on the same side instead of having a 79" span between them as in plans C, D, and E. I have 72" between my cook top and sink, across an aisle, too. Never considered it an issue but thought I'd offer this option in case you'd rather have sink and range closer together.

The span between fridge and ovens could be a baking center. That's why I suggest putting the cabs to the right of the ovens to the counter. It would be a great place to store your mixer, etc.

This plan gives you 145" of counter with 61" in one span.

I attempted to draw a round table banquette better, drawing inspiration from the photo I posted above. My attempt is laughable but I tried. It's definitely not to scale. Shifting the sink to the top wall and moving fridge to the bottom wall gives you room for a 42" round table instead of 36" round table.

Oops, I just realized that one of my measurements is wrong. The "3" dimension near the DW should be 18". I meant to mark from the center of the table, not the side. That's one benefit of a round table - it's more forgiving in a small space.

I also realized that if you do a set-up similar to the banquette in Plan G but with the fridge on the top wall, as in Plan D, you may have room for a 42" round table as well. Here's how I think the numbers lay out for a 36" and a 42" round table.

36":
Distance from widest part of table to an imaginary line parallel to fridge face: 40"
Distance from that line to side of fridge: 21"

42:
Distance from widest part of table to an imaginary line parallel to fridge face: 36"
Distance from that line to side of fridge: 18"

You'd need to draw this up to scale to see what the diagonal measurement from table edge to fridge face is but I think you'll have 41" to 42" with a 42" round table.

Oh, one thing I forgot to mention. Go for a pedestal or trestle type table. Tables with legs at the corners make sliding onto a bench much more difficult.

Found another inspiration photo for you:

[

[traditional living room design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-living-room-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_718~s_2107) by denver interior designer Aneka D Jensen

Oh, oh, oh, I just had another idea for you kitchen (this is much more fun than cleaning my house. Can you say procrastinate?). I don't know why I didn't think of this set-up earlier.

It's Plan D with a different banquette set-up and a larger pantry. It will seat 4 (the table isn't long enough to seat someone at the end). This set-up also offers easy slide-in same as the round banquette set-up I just posted. My inspiration came from this photo at houzz.com:

[

[traditional kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by chicago kitchen and bath The Kitchen Studio of Glen Ellyn

You can't do this banquette set-up with the fridge on the bottom wall. Well, you could but you'd need to move the fridge all the way over to the window's edge (towards the ovens) and put a 12" cab between fridge and banquette so that not only can you open the fridge doors but you have room to open them without smacking the back of the bench.

This banquette set-up would be less expensive to build than the round banquette simply because it's easier to build. You might, however, need to have a table top built. I'm not sure if 42" by 48" table size is standard. If that's not possible, go for a 48" square table and reduce the cab next to the banquette from 33" to 27". You could add a drawer to the right hand side bench for more storage. See the link below to see what I mean.

I think these latest 2 plans are my favorites for your kitchen. Not sure which I'd choose, both have pros and cons and which works best will depend on how you use your kitchen. You'll have to make that decision on your own. ;-)

Here is a link that might be useful: DIY Banquette with Coffin Drawer - Pics

I've been trying to find an article about banquette dimensions for you but I can't find the one I'm thinking of. I thought I'd bookmarked it but guess not, dang it.

So here are bits and pieces of info I've pulled together from other places.

From a KF thread last year, quoting a Fine Homebuilding article on their website:
In case anyone else is interested, they recommend a 3-5 degree angle on the back and 18-22" seat.

From a 2008 entry at The Kitchen Designer blog:
The better banquette, taking its place, is about comfort!

Start with a much shorter cabinet height, approximately 14-15" or so. Typically, a standard cabinet height for a banquette is 18" high. Then, you have a 2" cushion. Out with the 2" cushion! What is far better is a 4-5" cushion. Make the cushions like a sofa cushion....comfortable, yet supportive. The word I use repeatedly is "cushy."

From another post on KF, referencing the book 'more not so big solutions for your home' has measurements and useful images for building booths. They recommend an overlap of 4-5" between seat and table. (I designed for 6" so adjust the design as needed. This will depend on how deep your bench is, too. You don't want to be seated too far away from the table nor do you want to be squished up tight to it either. A mock-up might help you figure this out.)

The above book would be a good resource for you so that you, your contractor and cab maker design a banquette area that is comfortable for you.

Lisa_a, I borrowed ideas from each one of your layouts and came up with these ideas.

I'm hoping that everyone can chime in to see if there are any potential problems with each of these layouts.

My goal was not to move any doors. I have electrical switches and HVAC lines near both doors. There is also a heat vent, under the window, near the banquette.

OMG, those circular banquettes are TDF. So, so organic. Something like that would add so much character to a kitchen, especially one with a relatively small footprint. I don't think I've ever seen anything quite like those 2 inspiration pictures, Lisa.

Sorry, April, I can't help much with the layout until I get my own act together and learn about it myself. I'm loving what Lisa is offering here, though. And it sounds like you are, too. Oh, the joys of GW!

April, I understand your goals - get the most kitchen you possibly can with your reno dollars - but I think you're crowding too much into your space, reducing ease of function with these versions. My feedback is blunt, sorry, but I want to see you get the most functional kitchen you can for your money.

Versions 1 & 2:
You've lengthened the table and right hand bench to 58" or 60" (is that grey thing a 2" spacer?), which means that there's only a 12" or 14" gap between table and 24" deep pantry for someone to slide into the left hand bench. That's tight. I can't determine the width of the table but I recommend one no wider than 42" to give you enough room for benches with padding or pillows.

These two versions also only give you a 34" to 36" aisle between peninsula and right hand bench and the full sized fridge across the aisle. I'm assuming your fridge is 36" deep - box, doors, air gap and possibly handles included in that measurement. Even if your fridge is slightly shallower, that's still a pinch point, potentially impassable when the fridge doors are opened. You wrote that one of your beefs with your current kitchen is that traffic jams up in the narrow aisle around the fridge. You're going to recreate that same frustrating scenario with versions 1 & 2.

Version 1:
I'm not sure what purpose a 12" side cabinet will serve on the left side of the fridge, other than to take away valuable counter space between fridge and range.

Because you're opting for a 33" Susan, not a 36", you will only have 9" between sink and open oven door. In other words, no one can be at the sink when you open the oven door. That limits your kitchen to a one-cook kitchen. I thought one of your goals was to create a kitchen that could accommodate multiple cooks during family gatherings.

Simple fixes: Move the fridge to the left end of that run and add the 12" from that cab to the cab between fridge and range. Shorten the right hand bench and table to 48", eliminate the peninsula, move the oven cab to the left of the DW, change the 33" Susan to a 36" Susan and put a 30" cabinet where the oven cab was. Hmmm, one problem with this is that you now have the oven doors opening right behind anyone seated in the right hand bench. If someone leaned back or flung their hair back ... well, that could be a problem. You can address this issue with a high backed bench.

Version 2:
The sink/DW area has ample room but it's at the cost of the fridge/range & oven side. 9" on either side of the range doesn't provide enough room to set a pot down or enough clearance for many pot handles, nor is 9" wide cabinet space that useful. I think you'll find this a frustrating set-up.

Simple fixes: I've never used corner Susans but I've seen enough posts here that one with too small an opening is frustrating to use. If you eliminate the peninsula in this version, you have enough room to swap a 33" Susan for a 36" Susan. However, that does not address the space issues of the fridge/range, oven wall. I don't think this plan is a viable option.

Version 3:
Part of your sink will extend beyond the window. Will that bother you? Based on comments made here, it does bother the majority of people. They want to see a sink under a window or not under a window, not partially under a window.

If I'm following your key correctly and doing my math correctly, the banquette is version 3 is only large enough for 2 people, one on each side of the table. Is that your intention? I fear you're trying to make this large enough for 4 people but it really isn't. The corner is unusable, which means the bench along the sink wall is only 52" long. That's enough room for 2 people - each need 24" of room - but that leaves only a 4" gap for people to slide onto the bench. Unless you're really, really skinny - skinnier than Twiggy (that dates me) or Kate Moss (for the younger crowd) - that's not possible.

Easy fixes:
Move the fridge down, eliminating the 9" cabinet. Exchange the lazy Charlie (never heard this term before, funny!) for a 36" wide Susan, which puts the sink under the window.

Put a 30" cab where you show a 24" cab in your plan. Go with a 36" square table to create a banquette for 2 with room for people to slide onto the bench.

To seat 3, reduce the pantry to 36", lengthen the bench on that wall to 94", and opt for a rectangular table, 36" x 52" - an odd size so likely custom. I realize that in one of my earlier plans, I had suggested a 60" long table but that was when I was incorrectly remembering that a table can overlap a bench by 6", not 4" or 5". I also suggested that 18" was enough room to slide onto the bench because the pantry in that plan was only 18" deep, not 24", which does make a difference. You may be able to make 18" work between table and 24" deep pantry - you'll have to do a mock-up.

None of these plans show the doorways moving. Is that beyond your budget? That's understandable but it does make squeezing everything into your space a challenge. ;-) Here's an idea to try:

This pretty much reflects the changes I suggested for your version 1 and for the banquette area. The key thing I did in this plan was to move the ovens to the top left corner with a 26" cab next to it. You can store baking supplies, pans, etc in this cab, plus the counter gives you landing space for items coming from the ovens.

I moved the pantry to the left of the DW, which means it shrinks from 48" to 32", unfortunately, but it no longer has to house the MW - that's in an upper cab on the DR wall - so that helps. Plus some of the items you may have stored in the pantry can now be stored in the cabinet next to the ovens. You should end up with about the same amount of storage as before. This lay-out will allow more than one person to work in your kitchen.

The 42" x 48" table overhangs the bench by 4" on each side.

You can add additional storage if you add a drawer to the right hand bench.

Three things occurred to me after I turned off my computer.

One, your aisle between range wall cabs and DR wall cabs is 38.5". That's doable but because of this, I'd rather see the range moved farther in from the doorway than 24" to avoid a pinch point here.

Two, the span of cabs on the range wall is only 117" but you have a wall that measures 123". Is there a reason why you aren't using those remaining 6"? You've plenty of clearance between side of fridge and oven cabs by the next doorway (I'm referring to my Version 1A): 63" (I've allowed 27" depth for ovens, including handles, could be more, could be less). You can take 6" from that aisle and add it to cabs around the range without any problems, which addresses my first thing.

I'd do it this way: 32" cab to right of range and 22" to left or 34" cab to right and 20" cab to left. That still gives you decent clearance to the left but gives you more clearance between range and doorway to the right. If you can't use all 6" - to make room for molding or whatever - try to give any extra inches to the right cab and perhaps also shrink the left cab by a few inches.

And three, you may need to reduce the pantry from 32" to 30" to allow for a 2" spacer between it and the bench back so that you can fully open the cab doors. Your cab construction will determine whether you need to do this or not.

Oh Lisa_a,

If only I could have you here. I could vacation (or work extra hours to pay for this remodel) and when I came back the kitchen would be done. ;-)

Now I truly understand WHY you laid out the previous layouts the way you did.

Although I can physically measure, I'm terrible with how things will function and interact with one another in a space.

I surely APPRECIATE you insight. I have alot to learn. I'm off to go sit in my kitchen with your layouts.

You're welcome! Glad to hear my feedback and additional suggestion helped you! ;-)

You have everyone here to thank as well. I've been hanging out here for more than 2 years as I dream about my remodel (hopefully it will happen in 2012). I've learned a lot from fellow posters during that time and I'm more than glad to share the knowledge they shared with me.