I don't know much about glazed cabinets, but yes, to my eye the frames stand out as a different color. I'd definitely ask to have them treated the same way as the doors, to minimize that difference. Good luck!

Your cabinets are beautiful but I do think the frame should have the same treatment as your doors. From the picture it looks like there is a difference between the two. I'm inserting a picture of my recently installed glazed cabinets just so you can see that mine look all the same.

Agreed. All should be the same color.

yeah, it's noticeable. i'd want the frames to look the same as those gorgeous cabinets. it would bug me.

we have painted/glazed, and the frames, sides, etc, all have the exact same finish as the doors.

Thanks so much for the quick responses. You've given me the push I need to speak up to the cabinet guys. They've been great...I just hate to point out yet another thing that I think needs correction.

After moving into the new house and going through the punch list, it just feels like I'm picking everything apart and don't know when to stop!

Always speak up!! Nothing wrong with that. I am sure they want you to be happy with their work.

So now I am curious ,what exactly does glazing do? My cabinets(white) will be repainted soon, maybe that is something I should look into. What would a clearer glaze achieve? I will have black counters. Is this techinique something only a professional should do?

Yeah! That's poor workmanship and not something you have to settle for. That faux front for the hood would look so wonderful if it were properly glazed.

Hope you still owe them money so they'll get right on it.

msheidi- A glaze adds a darker tone that fills into crevices and angles and gives the look of a patina. It highlights shadows and gives depth to the appearance.

I just finished refacing my kitchen cabinets. The new cabinet doors & door fronts are white with a coffee glaze. Before they were installed, I painted the cabinet frames and a panel on the side of my refrigerator to match. The new doors came painted and glazed. The company gave me some of the glaze. However, I just took a door into the paint store and had the paint matched.The finish is a little different, but so little shows. I think it looks pretty good and you can't tell the doors and drawer fronts are not original to the cabinets.

I also just glazed my doors and frames. Your job is not finished. Normally, I would approach them as if it was an over site and tell them you want the boxes and frames glazed, too. Send them an email photo to show them just how different it looks.

HOWEVER, LOOKING AT YOUR CABINET DOORS... ahem,... I 'see' another problem with your cabinets that you may not have noticed and feel compelled to point out. Your doors were measured too small, IMHO. I would let them know that you are not happy with this glaring mistake. They will rush right over to glaze those boxes.

You do not have crown molding or a light rail and your doors should cover top to bottom of the frame if they are full overlay. The cabinet photo below yours above are inset, so there should be a 'frame' around the door. Your doors appear to be ordered like half-overlay, almost. Did you specify this and OK it? I'm am pointing out that if you ordered full-overlay, you do not have 'full coverage of the cabinet box frame.

Here's a view of my full overlay doors, which isn't the best of photos, but you can 'see' that the face frame of the cabinet boxes are covered. Only the crown and light rail are exposed. (Kitchen still in progress...)

Sherilynn,

I posted to you on the windowless kitchen a couple of days ago about your cabinet color and glaze. I just love the color and would like to paint my pure white cabinets like yours. Could you give me detail on the brand, color, and type of paint as well as the glazing proces. Your glaze is my inspiration as my granite is tropic brown and my floors are hardwood. Thanks in advance!

OP, please forgive this OT commentary to answer Julie. You can email me, too, if you click on My Page.

Julie, thank you for the compliments. It's taking me so long to finish that no one notices anything I do get done anymore! :o)

Anyway, I posted something in the forum below about type of paint. As for painting 'pure white', I wouldn't do bright white, but something on the order of Behr's Swiss Chocolate, which is just a perfect, subtle white that will compliment your granite.

I painted cabinets as described on the link below. After drying several days, I then took a small palm hand sander with 220 grit and sanded off the corners, edges, and high profile parts on the doors and other areas of the doors to show wearing away of paint. I then took a small 1" black foam brush and used Minwax stain on all of the exposed newly sanded wood, cleaning off excess stain off the paint and doors in about five minutes. You will have to choose a stain to compliment your granite and wood floors. This can be a messy process, so by a couple of boxes of disposable medical gloves. This is the best, easiest way to keep a messy job 'clean'. Especially if you work in the house like I do.

Once stained, let it dry a day. Then I mixed the glaze as I described on the web address in this paragraph, except I painted it around all of the edges of the door profile to accent and define the interior areas. (I mixed up about a pint of glaze at a time.) I wanted a more dramatic look to my doors, so I left a lot more product on my doors that the average pro painter. Use a 2.5" sash brush by Wooster. I love Purdy brushes, but for this job, only the Wooster works the best. I know, I tried them all. http://www.sherichase.com/progress/July2008Update.htm .

After the glaze, I also did another technique to the doors using an oak colored stain on the raised, thickest part of the door to give it a more golden, rustic look. I have a similar pattern in my kitchen table, except it has a light grey glaze. I did dry-dragging of a large brush across the front face of the doors with the light oak stain. It's subtle, but gives dimension and character when you're up close. I can take a better photo if you like. Let this dry a day.

Then I waxed the doors with clear Briwax. Ut takes about five minutes per door or so. Here's where I made a bit of a 'mistake'. I waxed with light brown, but I think it was a bit too yellow, so I'm removing some of it now. Half of the kitchen is waxed with clear, the other half I'm having to really work to get the wax off without messing up my paint job. So even on my photo above, you can see the uppers have brown wax and lowers have clear wax. It's all subtle. Well, I do have some of the brown wax off the upper in that photo. It's going to take some time and I have a lot to do right now.

As always, wet sand BY HAND between every coat of anything you put on your doors: paint, glaze, etc. Just make sure the product has cured before you sand. Wet sanding is the best. I gradually work up to 600 grit. I am still working on my doors now and am not pass 320 grit, I believe. I still have to get off that brown wax. It's not coming off like I think it should with the clear wax.

That being said, my kitchen photos show myriads of stages and mistakes. You can see my progress at: www.sherichase.com/progress to see where I started and am today. Email me and I'll give you my ph.# in case you need to call.

FYI: Only use a hand palm sander to remove wood and paint. Do not 'wet sand' with any electrice machine. All wet sanding is done by hand. Light pressure with the grain, wetting the door with a fine mist spray bottle then wiping off excess with a microfiber cloth.

Hope this helps.

Here is a link that might be useful: Painting cabinets

I would agree that a full overlay door would hide the frames better but as it is the frame should be glazed.
You can purchase glazed cabinets as standard overlay or full overlay.
You will notice with any glazed cabinet, that the flat areas will never have the same "hang up" of the trim areas or raised panel areas but the base color should match better then what you have shown.

Fairytalebaby, what is going on with your cabinets?