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whitelacey1

Painting Bath Vanity

Whitelacey
10 years ago

I hate my bathroom vanity although I am reluctant to replace as it is in good shape. How difficult is it to paint a cabinet and how does it hold up? I am very experienced at remodeling and re-dos but I have never attempted this. Is it worth the time and effort and does it look good when finished?

Linda

Comments (10)

  • peony4
    10 years ago

    Linda, my neighbor had standard oak vanities in her master bath and secondary bath. A few years ago, she painted the master bath vanity a dark espresso, and the secondary bath a white. Both turned out well and are holding up. The key is in good prep (primer is essential, and give it a few days to cure before painting, IMO).

    You may want to search the Internet for painted kitchen cabinets--different room, but same application. There is a lot of information available.

    Good luck!

  • joaniepoanie
    10 years ago

    Years ago I painted our cheap, builder grade, medium oak bath cabs white. I think I used oil based semi gloss, which I wouldn't do today. Here's what I would do.....give them a good cleaning and light sanding, prime, paint in maybe a satin finish...2 thin coats, then a low-sheen/satin poly..1 or two thin coats. What have you got to lose and easier and cheaper than ripping it out and replacing everything!

  • tuesday_2008
    10 years ago

    Does the finish just look worn and tired or are you wanted a totally different look?

    Years ago, I installed a 60" oak double vanity and the poly finish was showing some wear and tear. I cleaned really well and lightly sanded and applied two coats of clear semi-gloss poly. It really enhanced/livened up the wood and made it so much easier to clean,

    About five years ago, I was giving my other BR a slight facelift and had the same situation - a decent made builders grade oak small vanity which was showing finish deterioration. I chose to paint this vanity. Again, I cleaned it well, lightly sanded, applied a good coat of primer and 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Pro-classic. It turned out awesome; the finish is extremely hard and durable; no brush marks, etc.

    Both of these vanities were made by Birtch, not high-end, but decent quality other than the finish.

    The key is proper prep, the right products, and patience.

  • bbstx
    10 years ago

    I had builder's grade oak cabinets in my old house. Below is a link to a thread about my painting them. We lived in the house until this past summer. In the 3 years that we lived with them painted, there were never any problems.

    I took the doors off and set them horizontally to paint. I used a very good Purdy brush. And I took my time, waiting between coats for the paint to dry well. Because the hinges weren't concealed, I replaced them with black hinges.

    When I sold the house this past summer, my friend who bought it let me take the mercury knobs with me. They are going in the guest bathroom in the new house! I love those knobs.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Before and After pix and painting how-to

  • PRO
    Whitelacey
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    These vanities are in great shape they're just builder grade ugly. That, plus all the bathroom vanities and kitchen cabinets are the same. I just don't want to get into something over my head or have it turn out hideous and then having to replace them in the end.

    Linda

  • juliekcmo
    10 years ago

    I agree with posters above.

    We moved last year and we have repainted all bath and kitchen cabinets, and are very happy with the outcome. I found lots of helpful info online.

    Basic steps we used were: sand old finish with sanding block (just a rough up of the old finish by hand), wash with TSP soap, rinse well, 1 coat of very high quality primer and 2 coats of very high quality door and trim paint. Lay on with a brush, and lay off with a small foam roller. You will have no brush marks in this manner. We used the new Sherwin Williams paint. Water clean up, but is scrubbable after it cures. If you sign up on their website they offer 30% off frequently, and with spring coming up they will have a 40 off soon. Ask at the store and they will be able to tell you when that is; guessing first weekend April.

    We removed drawers, but did not take off doors. We painted over existing hinges as we did not want to spend the money to replace. We added new pulls.

    Very happy with the results, and it isn't hard, just important to do the steps and buy the high quality paint.

  • PRO
    Whitelacey
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks for the help! I think I'll give it a try.

    Linda

  • nosoccermom
    10 years ago

    What material are they? Wood, veneer, laminate?
    The easiest for my cheapo oak vanity was General Finishes gel stain in espresso. Google it and you'll see plenty of examples. I didn't sand but just slapped it on with a sock, followed by a poly top coat. Has held up really well and looks great, even on the fake laminate wood sides. There, it looks like paint, on the cabinets, there's some grain visible.
    I also painted a maple vanity with the Rustoleum cabinet makeover kit (in black), which half-way freaked me out because the paint seemed to slide right off when I put the top coat on. However, it turned out ok in the end.
    Also just painted my painted mdf/laminate cabinets white, which so far has held up; sanding, primer, BM paint; however, that bathroom gets little use.

  • patty_cakes
    10 years ago

    There are several how to's on pinterest, not just for the painting, but for making them a one-of-a-kind design.

    A beadboard wallpaper might also work, and it's paintable and not expensive. You would probably get enough on a double roll(usually the only way it can be ordered, about $35)to do a 'faux' wainscoting'. Just another thought.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Pinterest

  • User
    10 years ago

    Just make sure you clean well, lightly sand or use a bonding primer (I like Zinsser 123 & BIN primer), and two coats of quality paint.
    *Side note - I would not use SW All Surface Enamel in high gloss. I'm not impressed with that paint. Also stay far away from their Porch & Floor paint. I ended up with a 'bad batch' that wrecked my stair project. - W-r-e-c-k-e-d. I was told they were discontinuing the product for many reasons, but the last I looked it's still around.

    I am having some chipping in my one bathroom. The issue came from me putting a nic in the top of the door before the paint had cured and didn't deal with the touch up and now there's a bigger section where the paint is off. That wouldn't stop me from painting again, but just be careful with the cabinets until everything has fully cured - I think it takes a month, but don't hold me to that.

    I would use BM Satin Impervo or I'd like to try the brand Cabinet Coat. It's self leveling and you can also have it tinted.

    There's also the General Finishes gel stain option. You can apply coats without wiping off and it ends up looking opaque like paint (which I would just assume paint if that's the look you want), or you can do very light coats or wipe the stain off to show the grain.

    There's also the beadboard wallpaper option Pattycakes mentioned. I bought recessed paneled cabinets from Lowes for my laundry room and used the bb wallpaper for the insert panels. I caulked around the edges, painted, and they look great. Everyone can't believe it isn't real bb. I used Graham & Brown brand and ordered from Lowes. It's very thick and easy to use. It will dent if you push your fingernail hard into it. I would never use it for the back of an island where people would sit.

    I would personally change the finish before replacing a vanity.