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| I want to try to "get away" with a partial curb rather than a curb around the entire opening of the shower. As shown in the diagram below, I will have a curb that runs the entire left-to-right direction which is 4 feet. On top of the left 3 feet of this curb will rest a glass panel. The area above the 3' shower wall is where I would like to go curbless.
I know that this shower won't meet code since the tile at the curbless side will not be 2" above the drain. But, from a practical point of view, I don't see how water would escape at this location. Is this okay to do or am I asking for trouble? If it is okay, how exactly would I slope the pan at this section?
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Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by nycbluedevil (My Page) on Wed, Jan 25, 12 at 6:50
| We have your exact dimensions but we do have a curb. I think the only reason the water doesn't escape a lot (we do get some bit of overspray) is because we primarily use a rainhead. When we use our handshower--where your showerhead will be--we are careful about which way it is facing. I think you will have water coming out unless your floor slopes into the middle sufficiently and unless you use a rainhead, which tends to keep the water in the shower better. |
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| a glass panel to the floor without any curb would work too. the segment of floor that "has no curb" is raised and sloped ; this will transition to the flat level floor outside the shower somehow. Think about this. |
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| nycbluedevil: I can see how a rainshower will contain water moreso than a traditional shower, but we will have a traditional shower head so sounds like water could escape. davidro1: How the transition from the sloped shower floor to the floor outside of the shower is what I'm struggling with. I am trying to do this without adjusting floor levels. With a Kerdi drain 3/4" above the subfloor, the shower pan mud will be at 1 3/8" at the point the pan meets the floor outside of the shower. The floor outside of the shower is much lower than 1 3/8" so how do I make this transition work without a curb?? |
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| We have a curbless shower. The way we made it work was by cutting the joists down below the shower and sistering the joists to restore the necessary joist strength.. |
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- Posted by lazypup (lazypup@yahoo.com) on Wed, Jan 25, 12 at 19:33
| If you were to move the drain from the middle of the room to then end against the wall under where you show the showerhead it would meet code,,,however code prohibits putting the shower head where you have it because the shower head may not spray towards the door. |
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| why is the drain going to be 3/4" above the floor? You don't need mud under it. You can even put it below the joist level. |
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| davidro1: The instructions that came with my Schluter Kerdi drain state that it must be mounted a minimum of 3/4" above the wood subfloor and then mortar must be packed under it. Is there another way to do this? |
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| Call Schluter and talk to a live person. First of all, if your floor were a concrete slab they would say oh golly no need to build it up.... Twice I have dug into a slab a bit, to give the drain shape the room it needed to sink down to slab level. 2ndly, if your drain is positioned between two joists you don't need to dig down like in a slab. If the drain is near a joist then its shape will bump against the joist. Schluter people might say something about an assumption that they have made about spacing, or about the mortar under the slope.... Remember that some companies have a CYA attitude. Use your judgement. Open the box and look at the drain shape. |
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| The drain will be between floor joists, on top of which will be a 3/4 " floor. I'm really having a hard time envisioning how the drain flange could be below the top of the floor joists -- what would support the drain, how will the shower pan be poured? If you have a diagram showing what you're proposing, that would help. |
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| sorry to confuse things. Just realize that the 3/4" distance is assuming you will have a sand mix bed under the sloped membrane. It's an assumption. You may build your slope any other way that takes less space. Also, it is possible to imagine cutting and building a patch of lowered subfloor. But never mind this if it's too hard to do. B.t.w. I don't remember writing anything like this: "drain flange could be below the top of the floor joists". |
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| Trying to make the partial curb idea work became too complicated, so I've abandoned that idea and plan on doing the following: Have a curb on both the 48" side and 24" side. For the 48" side, I plan on a single 2x4 topped with two layers of 1/2" durock for a total finished height of 3" and finished width of 5 1/2". For the 24" side, I want a thinner, shorter curb so I was thinking of two layers of 2" wide 3/4" plywood topped with one layer of 1/2" durock for a total finished height of 2 1/2" and finished width of 4". I was thinking a solid piece of stone on top of the 48" curb with a glass panel on top of the stone, and tile on the 24" curb. Two reasons for the smaller 24" curb. First, space on this side is tight at the moment (won't be once we redo remainder of bathroom in the future). Secondly, the smaller curb "identifies" this side as being the entrance to the shower. If this isn't going to look right, I'm willing to go with the 48" curb style for both sides. Any opinions on this curb approach? |
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