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amykath

Help with staining

amykath
9 years ago

I just stained my cabinet door sample from Barker a mix between Dark Walnut and Provencial. I used the wood conditioner first and then stained it with one coat. I am wondering if I should wax it after it dries. Likely a clear wax. I love that look.
The bottom of the photo is our wood floors (they really do not look that yellow in person). We will be using carrera marble on our countertops. The island will be this wood. BTW it is alder (no knots). The perimeter will be painted white dove.

It looks splotchy to me. I probably need to sand it first with a 220 grit.

I know staining can be tough. Is there a certain process I should follow that will make it look nicer?

Suggestions or thoughts are much appreciated!

Comments (10)

  • sombreuil_mongrel
    9 years ago

    Looks like water spots. Maybe glue spots; If they were factory-sanded, the glue spots should be gone. Water (or sweat) opens the grain after sanding and so the spots absorb more stain. Some people exploit this tendency be dampening an entire piece once so it takes stain darker. Whatever species of wood that is, it does not benefit from "water popping" (what that practice is called).
    You are going to have to do a lot of sanding to get those spots out, but I'm guessing that the sample is not going into the finished cabinets.
    Casey

  • amykath
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    SO, Sombreuil, what do you suggest once I get the cabinets ordered. This wood is alder. Should I sand it first, the add conditioner then stain with a brush or should I use something else or some other technique?

    Thanks so much for responding!

  • handymac
    9 years ago

    The problem with staining soft woods like pine/alder/spruce is how the grain patterns and density can be very different in a single piece of the wood---as you see in the left vertical piece. That is what causes the splotchy look. Then you try to stain pieces from different trees(same variety) and the job becomes very difficult.

    I once finished a factory built home for the owner(installed her doors) and installed the factory supplied trim after the flooring was installed.

    The trim was pine, stained a similar tone to what you have. I have had some success at matching colors(I use dyes and stains) for repair work.

    I could not match the tone on that trim. So, I called the factory and they consented to giving me the stain formula they used.

    I was close, using two of the four stains they mixed to get the color/consistency of the look.

    They did not use a pretreatment, having designed the formula to not require that step(time is money in a factory).

    Short of spending hours and dollars trying to design a formula, you might try different preparation steps. I usually presand with 150 grit before staining. Sanding with 220 will close the pores and the wood will take less stain That might work on individual pieces, but probably not on a single piece(like the left vertical in your photo)

    Next easiest would be a finish with color(toner) added. Adding a glaze after a coat of finish, for instance
    http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/glazing-easy-way-add-color-wood/

  • klem1
    9 years ago

    Other things aside,whatever you did in the name "conditioning" before staining didn't work. Did you apply a home brew or commercial product? Expanding on what handymac said in his first paragraph,I doubt the cabinet builder intended that door to be stained. Even with proper conditioning,that door would still turn out a mess due to dissimilar grain patterns. Cabinet builders choose similar material for all parts in the door if it is to be stained but not if they are to be painted.

  • amykath
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    It was a sample door. I used minwax oil based conditioner first. Then stained with a liquid regular minwax stain.

    I ordered another alder door. This time, I plan to sand it and make sure it is smooth. Then add shellac and sand again. Then I plan to see if I prefer a gel stain on top of that or just a regular stain. I watched a million youtube videos and think this is my best bet.

    Thanks so much for the responses!
    Amy

  • bobismyuncle
    9 years ago

    Wood conditioners just don't work all that well when used as directed. Here are some links that may be useful:

    Wood conditioner confusion

    Wash coats

    Some discussion about coloring alder

    Being in the Midwest, I don't see much alder, but the one time I used it, I did a "wood conditioner" trial using various products. The one that worked the best was a dilute hide glue, brushed on and let dry.

    Gel stains also tend to work better than Minwax oil-based stains. I have had decent results with Minwax stains, but only the ones that are dye-only. Since I've moved on to more professional grade stains, I have not had blotching problems on a variety of woods that often cause problems.

  • jeff-1010
    9 years ago

    i've had great success using clear shellac thinned with about 20-30% with alcohol. apply, let dry and sand evenly with 220-280 paper. the idea is to sand the surface of the shellac off leaving the grain filled shellac filler in place. then if you use an oil base stain you have more control of the color . i like min wax myself.

  • amykath
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks Jeff! That is good to hear!

  • PRO
    Precision Carpentry
    9 years ago

    I would ad that from the picture those are paint grade doors.Just a thought.I don't think any door manufacturer would sell these as finish grade.

  • amykath
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    They are alder from Barker.