When I do crown, I do "upside down and backwards." This way, you don't need a compound setting. Just set your saw to the angle you need.

Pretend the base is the ceiling and the fence is the wall.

In addition to being simpler, it means you only have one setting per cut, not two, thus dramatically decreasing the chance for error.

Try the link below... if your spring angle is 45 degrees, then the miter setting will be around 16.5 degrees and the bevel about 15.5 degrees.

Here is a link that might be useful: Crown molding table

bobsmyuncle

Your a Dear Man but ..
I have to disagree with your assesment of easy and hard.

I went through the upside down and backwards stuff and .. I did it all on a manual miter box.

Today, right after I bought the compound miter saw .. I cut .. Oh, let me think, Oh yes, I cut Twelve inside and outside crown moldings that will fit perfectly in two other rooms that I want to do.
THAT .. Even though I now know how to do those easy cuts would have taken me .. at least 8 to 9 hours to do ..
I did them on the Dewalt in less than 30 minutes.
Oh yes .. I did the cuts without all of that .. Upside Down and Backwards .. Bog The Mind, Into Insanity stuff.

If you scroll down the page linked below, you will find a table of compound angles to cut for any corner; If it's a 45* bay, the angles are 135* instead of 90*. This is a page from the DeWalt website, BTW.
Casey

Here is a link that might be useful: Crown Mold. Miter spreadsheet

Just saying it works best for me. I set up for spring angle and only have to move the saw between L & R 45 degrees, rather than get two angles right (even though my saw has stops for the common spring angles and I used to teach college trig and calculus).

If you have no problem doing it your way (and I presume you are not alone because there are compound miter saws), that's fine.

Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/PDF/Free/021051064.pdf