I use TransTint dyes, available from most woodworking supply houses to alter oil stains.

Mostly though I avoid oil stains altogether, instead mixing the color I want using the TransFast powder dyes in water or shellac and then clear finish coats. I find the color is much better, and with the shellac the chances of blotchiness much less, especially of the colored coat is the second one. It is critical to fully finish (including the same sanding regime) your test pieces though, the colors will change with the finish applied.

rwiegand, thanks for your reply and info. I love the idea of mixing custom colors. It's a hassle having to buy stains online, extra shipping/handling, and then waiting a week. Maybe the right color, maybe not.

I've decided that this desk will be a reddish mahogany. It's been through enough and it's not worth redoing a third time.

But, your info is quite useful and I will consider going a dye route next time. I haven't refinished wood in over 30 years, and I really enjoy the process.

the art/craft supply store has small tubes of oil paint you could use

Regular artist oil paints?

Yes ... you can add burnt umber to "brown it up".

As long as you stay to the same solvents - water or oil - you can blend in small amounts of other brands to lightly correct color. Ebony will darken and "brown" a stain a bit. Adding red is way easier than getting rid of it.

There are also "universal tints" for oil paints and stains. A slight bit of green dulls out the red (like a green concealer hides the red of a pimple).

Oh, this is soooo tempting. I also want to get this desk done and back inside. One more coat of stain, then wait at least a week before multiple coats of poly. I may let this desk be a bit red and pick up a small old piece of something at my local Restore and experiment. Thanks for the info Lazy!

Normally, if this is a pigment-based stain, you can use UTC (universal tinting colorants), the stuff in the carousel at the paint store where they mix is 1 of this, 3 of that, and 3 of something else.

To neutralize red, you need to add green. Normally this is Raw Umber. Your local paint store will give or sell you a couple of squirts of UTC if you take in a little jar.

Only warning is mix in a little at a time. Easier to go more than less.

You could also use a raw umber glaze between coats of finish after you've applied the stain and first coat of finish. You can manipulate this and see the results right in front of your eyes.

Anyway, that's a couple of ways to do it. You could also use a toner, but usually you have to spray that and that would be difficult on a poly finish.

Hey bobsmyuncle, thanks for this good info!.

I'm using General Finishes oil-based stain. Is that pigment-based? If not, who makes one?

I had no idea my local paint store would sell me squirts of UTC!

I'm planning to use General Finishes High Performance water-based Polyurethane. I know I can put that over oil-based stain. I thought I couldn't put anything oil-based (glaze) on top of that. Or, does the UTC for the glaze go into a different medium?

I think I'm gonna stay the current course with this desk. I had some friends over today and they wanted to see the progress of my desk. They love the reddish mahogany. I admit I'm rediscovering the fun of refinishing wood. Next time I'll think about mixing my own colors.

Thanks everyone for all the good info!

I put on a second coat of stain yesterday. It's still on the red side, but oh my is it a gorgeous rich red. Now a week or more before the poly. I think the biggest negative is the amount of time you have to wait with pieces sitting in the garage. It's what is giving me pause as I eye other sad pieces of wood furniture in my house that could benefit from refinishing.