Bri-wax is as good as any so you might contact them as well as others you like,to ask about the issues you must avoid.

You are aware wax is almost no protection at all for a wood table that will be used?

In my experience, non poly varnish is the easiest finish to apply that can be spot repaired if damaged.

Poly is a form of plastic, which means a chip cannot be spot repaired because the plastic does not feather.

Shellac can easily be damaged by alcohol and lacquer is difficult(and smelly) to DIY apply.

the original briwax is very stinky, but is a good product. Liberon wax does not have much of a smell to it

if the following link works, it tells about wax finishes

Briwax contains toluene that may be more irritating than mineral spirits used by most other waxes.

Wax and mineral oil is often recommended for butcher blocks and cutting boards. I'm not sure I'd use it for a table.

Here is a link that might be useful: wax finishes

Thank you. Very Interesting. I cross-posted this on another board, and the general consensus seems to be that wax is no good. So, if all you experts say so, I'm on board.

So, what is the best finish for this table so that it still looks natural (not shiny or varnished) and is somewhat water resistant? Can i do this myself or should I hire a pro?

Also, how can I tell if it's already been finished with wax? From what I understand, if there's wax already on there, I'm stuck with it.

You can use regular paint thinner and a scouring (ScotchBrite) pad(400 or so grit or equivalent) to remove the wax.

That will not hurt, other than scratching, any other finish on the wood.

Then try a coat of wiping varnish(see the link.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wiping varnish

Alow a drop of water to sit on it for 60 secounds,. If you can pick 100% of the water up with the corner of a paper towel and wood doesn't change color,there is finish on it.