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rocksandroses

Suggestions to prevent blotching when refinishing pine furniture

RocksAndRoses
9 years ago

Me again with yet another newbie question...

I am progressing on my stripping and refinishing projects. Thanks for all of your advice and encouragement.

My next projects are refinishing several pine pieces. I have a desk, curio and table originally from the unfinished furniture store. All were pine. I finished them with spray shellac - the clear kind in the aerosol can with a yellow label. They were perfect in my country kitchen at the time. I have moved three times since then. They won't even be located in my kitchen anymore.

The curio is still in great shape, but I want to stain it Rich Mahogany to coordinate with my china cabinet. I am using Old Masters wiping stain - an oil based stain - on my china cabinet. However, I suspect it may be blotchy on pine.

How should I clean and prep the piece considering it is coated with the shellac? Strip it completely? With stripper or something else? Sand it considering the shellac as a stabilizing precoat - I read some people use shellac on purpose before staining? Yes, I am blonde and new to refinishing furniture, but having fun in the process.

Do you recommend the wiping stain? A gel stain in the same color? A combination of the two? Something in the lacquer family?

What would you suggest as the final protective coat for this piece? It is decorative, not heavily used, so poly isn't necessary.

The desk, on the other hand, is really beat up. I haven't decided on the color or type of stain. It could end up Rich Mahogany while I have that on hand. I bought the Old Masters gel stain in Spanish Black inspired by gel stain craze. I am not a fan. I could get the same appearance with a black enamel paint for less money and time. A gel stain in a lighter color may have better results. I have to move my computers, clean my desk and haul it outside for a thorough cleaning. I plan to use warm water with Dawn dish soap and fine steel wool unless advised otherwise. The desk has black stains in the grain. I suspect it is from water, but it could be dirt. I assume the next step would be bleaching with oxalic acid. Then...I will have a pine desk with possible residual spray shellac. I want a darker color - black, mahogany, cherry - but I don't want to paint it. I work from home and live at my desk. It will have to have a very strong protective coat to resist shifting computer gear, tossed metal knitting needles, coffee cups, water glasses, etc. I use coasters, the stains must be from spilled water that didn't dry completely or age. What are my best finishing options?

My third piece is a shaker style pine table with folded down edges. It was formerly my kitchen table. I was happy with it as a kitchen table. The xbf thought it needed to be sturdier, so he added some bracing underneath and painted it with a home depot semi gloss. Not a fan of that either. I am going to sand, prime it with Kilz and paint it again. Yellow, inspired by Monet's kitchen in Giverny. If you have a favorite brand of furniture paint I would love to know about it!

I am trying to get the stripping, sanding and messy work done outside while I can. I also don't drive, so I stock up on supplies when out and about with friends or on the bus. I am making my Benjamin Moore and Home Depot shopping lists and checking them twice.

Comments (4)

  • klem1
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I believe you have a plan for table and desk so regarding curio. Sellac is a fine conditioner to prevent blotch. Since the piece is in good shape,sand to 180,dry wipe, wipe with alcohol moistened rag then emediatly apply light even coat 1 Lb to 1/2 Lb cut shellac. Lite sand with 150,tack and stain. You might be alright just sanding, wiping finish away with wet alcohol rags and skipping wash coat. Since you are familar with shellac as top coat and you have it on hand,why not use it as top coat agan? Considering your full bore all systems straight ahead refinishing hobby,here's a tip. Shellac is the easiest finish to repair 5-10 or 20 years latter. Lacquer is a close 2nd. Both owe that to the fact that a new coat melts the existing coat effectivly mixing the two coats and reflowing them. I reccomend buying various colors dry flake shellac and mixing with denatured alcohol for each project. It's inexpensive and fun experimenting different colors and cuts to create interesting shades on a piece. If it doesn't work like you wanted,quick and easy to wipe away with alcohol and start over. Sellac isn't very durable and laquer is medium durability.

  • RocksAndRoses
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you for your suggestions. It is reassuring that I can clean and wipe the pieces with alcohol and not have to strip them. I am so tired of stripping furniture!

    I should clarify that the "spray" shellac that I used was the kind in the aerosol can from the hardware store. I think the brand was Zinsser. I used up those cans years ago! I don't have spray equipment or supplies now.

  • klem1
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    "I don't have spray equipment or supplies now."
    No prob,shellac works fine with a brush. Not so with most laquer,spray is nessary because of fast dry. There are brushing laquers with retarder that alow brushing if you work fast. I have used Deft brushing laquer with good results on pieces that will likly need top coat repair one or more times over their life. When you get bored with conventional finishing products and methods check into "french polishing".

  • RocksAndRoses
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you. I am enjoying finally being able to restore my furniture. I like making and fixing things.

    I am going to continue to use wiping poly on pieces, like my desk, that need the protection. I was deciding between Waterlox or the wiping poly for my china cabinet. I will have to look into shellac and lacquer as well.