This piece has taken on too much of a honey color. It might be the ATO, but that didn't happen on other pieces. Anyway, I read this in a thread that discussed creating an aged look:

>> I'd start with white and tint it to light gray with a bit of green undertone to cancel any warm tones naturally in the wood. (Of course, no other topcoat would be compatible with the wax.) <<

Where I'm going with this, is I'd like to take some of the honey color out of this piece. So..
1) Would sanding it some, then adding a tone as described above?
2) And, (of course) is there a gray you'd recommend, or should I add a tiny bit of green to a gray?
3) If gray/green takes the honey out of a piece (or changes the tone), what takes out the red?

Thanks all!

And neutralize it towards what color? Brown? Green? Red? Gray?

In my head, I can't get past the idea that I'll have a green door. I'm willing to try, but would like your opinion on the color question!!

Thanks for the 1st step.

To neutralize a color (toward brown) you add the color opposite
Red : Green
Yellow : Purple
Blue : Orange

The mnemonics to remember these are:
* Christmas
* Easter
* University of Illinois (well, easy for an alumnus like me)
or
The opposite of a primary color is the blend of the other two primary colors (red - blue - yellow)

Red : Green (yellow + blue)
Yellow : Purple (red + blue)
Blue : Orange (red + yellow)

A wood finisher's green is usually raw umber.
A wood finisher's purple is usually cordovan.
A wood finisher's red is usually burnt umber or burnt sienna

"Honey" is not really a defined color*. Might be yellow to one person, amber to another, light brown to someone else.

Rules of color matching:
- Never let anyone describe a color to you in words.*
- Always do a sample on scrap before committing to your project
- You can always go darker, but it's tough to go lighter
- There's no substitute for experience, but samples and color theory will help.
- You can almost always start over and obey the above rules.