You can use a w/b deep base (see the original note). It depends a lot on where (which state) you are. The paint woman at my local hardware store says what she can get now in our state is oil-based, but Low-VOC versions. Or you might be able to get one across a nearby state border and bootleg some in. Some of the hardware store co-ops (Ace and Do-it-best) have "ship to store" for free, and even if they don't carry it on the shelf, you might be able to order some. Or you might bypass the big box stores and go to a local paint store that caters to the trade and see what they carry.

Thanks - when you originally posted that link, I just zeroed in on the oil based paint. I was thinking of calling a paint store in our old state (100 mile drive) to see if they had such laws, but I'll check BM store (SW store said they didn't carry oil based exterior paints anymore either, after I first walked into Lowes looking for Olympic).

There's always a chance an older Lowes has some old stock (I went to nearest store, that had just opened this summer).

From the article:

"The bases for the 3 painted doors were an exterior semi-gloss acrylic, an exterior semi-gloss oil based polyurethane floor paint and a semi-gloss oil based trim and siding paint...

The results were interesting. The "spar" varnish looked fabulous but after about 2 weeks it began to develop small cracks. In rapid order the door began to turn black, started to mold and the smell was enough to knock a buzzard off of a manure wagon. The water-based acrylic is milky in the can like a water-based poly. It dried to a more or less water clear surface but was a bit cloudy. It tended to wash out the stain a bit. Over time it became cloudier and ultimately become almost white. But, it remained solid and protected the wood. The oil based bases are also a bit opaque in the can but dried to a clear finish that is almost identical to a spar varnish - they added an amber tone to the doors. Both the poly floor paint and the trim and siding paint remained "clear" over the entire test period...

The floor poly had some minor checking and a thinned coat of the same base over the surface made that disappear. The door with the oil-based trim and siding paint was perfect other than it had lost a bit of the gloss."

So it looks like "exterior semi-gloss oil based polyurethane floor paint" was the runner-up, any idea of what that is and where to find it? If that hasn't been done in by the new green laws?

I have some (expired? "21 20.09" date) Thermatru topcoat that is a water-based poly that's warrantied (material replacement only) for 5 years (but only has a 3 yr shelf life?). I was going to use that on my fiberglas door until the person I spoke with at Thermatru today said it probably expired 2/1/09. Last week customer service told me if it said 2009 I was OK to use it now. So I went ahead and stained the door yesterday. Right now I have my front door off, in the garage on sawhorses with (oilbased) stain drying. We plan on putting the door back on the hinges tomorrow after the coat of stain I put on this AM is dry, take it off again this w/e to topcoat.

"So no more deep base to use as a clear coat for exterior wood. Now what?"

Water based polyurethane.

I tried the expired Thermatru on the attic window just as a test case, I hated it, it's plasticky.

Based on recommendations from GW paint forum (Faron), I used Sikkens Cetol Door and Window on the fiberglas door and sidelights, looks nice. Used it on the (wood interior) garage window and it looks great! The garage (and attic) are exposed to temp swings since they are fully soffited and not insulated, but of course the interior is protected from moisture. Front door is under a porch so somewhat protected from rain and sun, but the bottom does get late afternoon sun and some wind-driven rain. I'll let you know how all 3 hold up.

Now I'm thinking Cetol interior for my interior (conditioned space) sashes, but wonder if it will make my poly'd jambs and stools look bad by comparison?