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debrawnelson

Question about properties of lacquer finish

debrawnelson
9 years ago

Hello. I have researched this many times without coming to a definitive answer, and I am hoping that someone here can help, or at least provide a clue. I had a custom china cabinet built by a professional furniture maker and restorer (small business--basically the owner and a helper). It's a beautiful piece of furniture, but a few things went wrong on the job and it ended badly. It's a long story...I thought we recovered from the bad stuff, but apparently not.

Here is my question: is there a lacquer finish product that requires the ongoing maintenance of oiling to keep the wood from drying out?

Read on only if you are interested in the background:

My basic understanding of lacquer finishes leads me to believe that oiling is unnecessary because the wood is basically sealed with this finish. The furniture maker told me I should dust with warm Murphy's oil soap, and that I should apply Milsek Furniture Oil four times a year on the crotch mahogany veneer doors, and once a year on the rest of the piece. I did this at first, but then stopped because I didn't think I should have to oil a lacquer finish. He came back to make some adjustments about eight months later, and was upset that I had not been oiling the piece. He applied a lot of oil to the veneered doors that day until it was no longer being absorbed by the wood. The veneer was starting to craze, and he told me to oil it once a month from then on. I have done this, but the crazing has gotten worse. Of course, it looks good when I have just oiled it because the moisture of the oil makes the cracks disappear, but as they dry out between oiling it, the cracks show up white.

I have tried in the nicest way possible to find out exactly what product was used to finish the piece, but this guy will not provide the information to me. I am even wondering if he really did apply lacquer to the piece. A lot of things about the finishing process didn't make sense to me. There were a lot of rough places on the piece at the bare wood/ready to finish stage that he said he would sand out, but those same rough areas were still there at delivery. He said it was wood filler coming to the surface, and that after six months he should come back and brillo the whole piece to take care of all those spots. There were other things that didn't make sense. I won't detail all of them, but one inconsistency has really bugged me. I requested a sample to use for shopping for other pieces for this room, and the sample is very smooth and glossy while still being able to feel the grain of the wood. However, the cabinet itself is very dull and looks to my eye like there is no protective finish at all. When I asked about the difference between the two finishes, he told me the cabinet had been rubbed out to look like an antique and the sample had not, since it was just a sample. However, wouldn't it be the opposite? The more glossy finish was rubbed out and built up more than the dull matte finish, correct? Also, I have never oiled the sample and I see no evidence of crazing in the veneer part of the sample, although it is very small. And the color of the sample is deeper and richer than the piece itself. Doesn't lacquer deepen and enrich the color of the wood?

I will leave it at this. As I said, it is a long and sad story. I would like to eventually have whatever is wrong corrected. I fear that the veneer will have to be replaced, at least at some point, and that the entire piece will have to be refinished.

I am really only requesting an answer to the basic question way above, but if you have any other insights to offer, they are much appreciated!

Comments (2)

  • bobismyuncle
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    One hopes he's a better woood worker than wood finisher.

    The Milsek Furniture Oil is, from the MSDS (the best place to look for any real information) just like myriad other furniture polishes -- light petroleum distillates like mineral oil and mineral spirits. These go by fancy names like Lemon Oil, Orange Oil, Teak Oil, etc. There is really no need for such polishes. USA seems to be the only place in the world where we feel the need to polish furniture. I just detest Pledge because of the silicone oil in it and the problems it causes for repair and refinishing. To my knowledge, there is no finish that requires ongoing furniture polish. Claims to feed the wood and restore natural oils are just so much horse puckey. True oil finishes such as linseed oil do need to be refreshed from time to time as the oil crystallizes, dulls, and sloughs off. This is not the stuff of furniture polish though.

    Once the finish is compromised by cracking, I would discontinue the use of Murphy's Oil Soap because the water will penetrate the fissures and cause more problems.

    The wood filler, presumably a pore filler, should be sealed under subsequent coats of finish. So I'm not sure what he's talking about there.

    There is often a lot of creative use of the word, "Lacquer" that cover many products from shellac, nitrocellulose lacquer, CAB lacquer, pre- and post-catalyzed lacquers, water-based or water-borne lacquers (acrylic), UV cured, and on and on. I can only guess as to what he applied.

    Rubbing can create about any sheen from flat to super high gloss depending upon the abrasive.

    Figured wood such as crotch are prone to cracking because the grain goes every which way. Not that it always does, but it does happen.

    Sorry for your troubles, but hope this gives you a little insight.

    This post was edited by bobsmyuncle on Tue, Aug 26, 14 at 16:49

  • debrawnelson
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you, bobsmyuncle, for your helpful response. I have never used the Murphy's Oil Soap on it, so no worries about water in the cracks. I have been oiling it with the Milsek product. Should I discontinue the oil? I have read that too much oil can lift a veneer, but I wipe any excess off after I oil it. I try to be an informed consumer, and all care instructions for my other wood furniture say to use a damp cloth only, so his instructions didn't seem right to me.

    As far as the wood filler goes, I think what really happened was that he never finished sanding the piece and was blaming the rough spots on the filler. There were quite a few follow-ups, so I didn't make an issue of this, especially since he said he would come back in six months and brillo the whole thing. But of course that never happened.

    Oh well. In the end, all I wanted from him was an honest answer about what he really used and did so I know where to go from here. I had bad vibes about this guy, but references were good so I forged ahead. Never again will I go against my gut!!