Return to the Woodworking Forum | Post a Follow-Up

 o
Interior doors

Posted by jscozz (My Page) on
Sun, Jul 1, 07 at 18:47

Seems like the best forum to post this question...

I am looking for interior doors for a new home. I want the solid feel of real wood doors... so hollow core, thin are out... my question is, do the Masonite solid core 1-3/4 doors REALLY have the feel of real wood, or do I really have to go with real wood to get the solid feel? The doors will be painted anyway, so I am open to anything that "feels real." If I need to go to real wood, what is best... poplar or pine? Will I get a lot of warping and problems with real wood that will not justify the jump from solid core Masonite?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Follow-Up Postings:

 o
RE: Interior doors

I hear you! I was the same way, however, by the time we priced out 64 doors for our home, uh... I changed my mind. :)

I did go with some kind of pre-hung door from HD that was 90 minute fire rated, 6 panel door for all of the bed rooms and bath room doors. They had to be special ordered. The other doors in our house look the same, but are regular Masonite doors with the wood grain markings.

This fire rated door is heavier and gave more sound proofing and 'substantial' feel handling the door. My only mistake was I didn't put one on my laundry room door. I put my laundry room next to my MBr so I didn't have to run clear across the house to do laundry. Thank goodness it helps tremendously shutting my br door if I should let something dry at night.

Do they look like real wood? IMHO, no. Nothing looks like real wood, except for real wood. But my budget was blown was blown by the time reality hit the fan. I was doing good to get DH to let me order the fire rated doors. He did agree that this was a wise investment. :)


 o
RE: Interior doors

Hi - I just joined the forum and I'm a woodworker by profession.

Poplar is the best wood for painted applications - it accepts paint well and can be sanded to a very smooth finish. Pine can too much residual sap in it and it will sometimes bleed thru the paint. It's also a bit harder to cover with paint.

Kiln dried wood should not warp or twist. The major consideration in using real wood is the seasonal expansion/contraction. In poplar it's minimal and the usual spacing around the door itself will accomodate it. When building solid wood furniture I have to compensate for the seasonal change in the design by using "moveable" joinery.


 o Post a Follow-Up

Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum.

    If you are a member, please log in.

    If you aren't yet a member, join now!


Return to the Woodworking Forum

Information about Posting

  • You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
  • Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
  • After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
  • Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
  • We have a strict no-advertising policy!
  • If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
  • If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.


Learn more about in-text links on this page here