The mdf-core is only part of the core, btw: it's 3 plies of actual wood with MDF core on each outer side. So it's pretty strong dimensionally, I think...

I'd be inclined to use veneer tape (standard edge-banding). It's less disruptive to the surface appearance of the doors, easier to get and much easier to work with.

Lee Valley suggests four hinges for a door up to 20" by 80", so I'd guess you'd need at least 5 depending on the width. It's not just the strength of the hinges you have to worry about; the weak link may be the holding power of the screws in the particle board.

Thanks for your reply, jon.

You're right about the 5 hinges--I learned that at Woodcraft looking at Blum hinges.

We're going back and forth in our minds--as I read about what would be involved in putting the 1/8" edging, which would evidently give a higher-end look to it and be tougher, I just don't think we have the ability technically or energy-wise right now (end of a 3 year remodel process.....). But when I think of edge-banding, I could do that with one hand tied behind my back at this point, although it would end up with not as refined a look.

Guess we have to decide whether we'd rather use walnut with edge banding and have the gorgeous doors with less than fabulous banding, or have Ikea doors we don't like but would be *done* just by hanging.

And re the screws in the particle board--"confirmat" screws are especially effective in particleboard, as are Inserta hinges...which we'd buy ourselves if we do the walnut, or which come with the Ikea doors automatically.

Ugh. Decisions. I really appreciate your thought that edgebanding would be sufficient. Gives us more to think about.

I think anything more than .5mm edgebanding takes away from the grain of the wood. The edges should not be prominent because that is not what you want people to focus on. If it is, then you might consider a contrasting material and/or color.

Stick with thin edge banding.
While it is more prone to damage than thicker wood, it wil not show as much.
When I make large uniform panels I add matching edging before veneering the panel. This minimizes the 'framing' effect of the edge banding since it is flush with the surface from the front of the panel.
Solid wood and veneer do not take finish exactly the same in many cases (it takes extra time to get the solid edging to match).
Since you have purchased panels that are already veneered this is not an option for you, and the thicker the edging the more attention it will create.
It would also be very difficult to finish the narrow strip of edging to match the face of the door.
Yo