Lacquer takes a lot of coats with at least some sanding between them to get a flat surface.

If you can tolerate a slight tint, Deft Clear Wood Finish is a brushing lacquer.

You need a high quality (think $30 and up for a 2.5 inch wide brush) to dal with lacquer.

Natural bristles (some of the very new synthetics might work).

Lacquer thinner is aggressive stuff, and can melt cheaper polyester and nylon brushes.

After a first coat of lacquer a very light sanding to remove and 'nibs' is followed by more coats.

Six or more might not be out of line.

If you use gloss lacquer you can then five it any sheen you ant after it fully hardens.

The OP responded in another thread the OP started, so I'm posting it here, since it makes more sense. This topic is of interest to me, so I am taking the liberty.

The OP responded:

"Thanks for the response , when using the minwax wood finish they suggest using a final Polyurethane finish over the top of it. I used it just by itself on a large grandmother clock and just left it it ,seems to be holding its own for about 10 years now. But I wanted a dry finish on the clock. I want a semi gloss on this table. When you used the Minwax wood Finnish dip you poly over it. My table has end grain spalted sycamore that I need to finish. My research says that first sycamore is hard to finish doesn't go on evenly it's blotchy and end grain wood when finished can be splotchy even more. some suggest a seal coat to keep it more even. What I want to do is use oil based Polyurethane with a percentage of Linseed oil mixed with mineral spirits to make it a rub on finish and put as many coats as I need for the finish I'm looking for and blochyness I'll concentration more finish on those parts until it is even. but should I use the Minwax first is my concern."