Return to the Woodworking Forum | Post a Follow-Up

 o
Mitering large baseboard

Posted by cstrombe (My Page) on
Mon, Jul 30, 07 at 13:03

We have some baseboard that is 5 1/4" tall. Our compound miter saw is not tall enough to cut it upright, so our carpenter is cutting it with the baseboard flat on the saw, and the saw tilted to 45 degrees. For some reason, the miters are not coming out nicely and he is thinking that in order for the 45 deg miters to work, he needs a saw that has enough clearance to cut the baseboard standing up.

Does this sound right?

This is stain-grade material, so no room for sloppy cuts (no caulk!). Any tips appreciated.

Thanks.


Follow-Up Postings:

 o
RE: Mitering large baseboard

Sounds like the saw is out of adjustment, or the board isn't being held in the right position for the cut. It also sounds like he could stand to learn to use a block plane.


 o
RE: Mitering large baseboard

The problem with cutting 45 degree miters flat is that the wood moves. There are holddown clamps sold as accessories for most miter saws that might help.

Another solution is to only miter outside corners and cope cut all inside corners. Coping does not need a good miter, just one close, as the back cut miter and any filing necessary makes the fit.


 o
RE: Mitering large baseboard

So theoretically, cutting miters "sideways" with a compound miter saw should work fine?

I read elsewhere that you should cope inside corners with stain grade so no gap opens up. Sounds like a good idea.

Will try cutting with clamps also and see if that helps.


 o
RE: Mitering large baseboard

Any of the above are possible. In the end, the miter should be the same whether it's cut upright, flat, upside down or on a tilted table.

The other assumption is the corner is twice the measure of the tilt of the saw. That is, even is the saw is cutting a perfect 45, I've yet to meet a corner that was a perfect 90.


 o
RE: Mitering large baseboard

"I've yet to meet a corner that was a perfect 90."

I have measured a few in plaster walled houses, but hardly any in drywall houses.
The mudding of the corner bead and feathering out messes up how the corner fits for molding.
It needs to bend to follow the variation in the drywall, and the resulting corners are often sharper than 90 degrees because of the 'flare' produced by mudding the corner bead.


 o Post a Follow-Up

Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum.

    If you are a member, please log in.

    If you aren't yet a member, join now!


Return to the Woodworking Forum

Information about Posting

  • You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
  • Please review our Rules of Play before posting.
  • Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
  • After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
  • Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
  • We have a strict no-advertising policy!
  • If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
  • If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.


Learn more about in-text links on this page here