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| Hi, (I figured woodworkers probably easily know the answer to this, though it's about wood flooring.)
I'm in the process of sanding my oak hardwood floors with a rental sander, using 100 grit. They were totally re-done/taken down about 10 yrs ago, so I'm trying to get out scratches and get a clean, new poly finish. Some scratches are deeper and I've been using my hand sander w/80 grit trying to get them out. The poly previously applied was pretty worn out in a lot of places and wood not sealed, (I've worked on the place a lot unfortunately AFTER the floors were done) - so altogether
THANK YOU very much for your input and advice. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Any variation in the wood surface (even the scratch pattern let by different sanding grits) can affect the appearance of the finished floor. A final sanding pass should be made over the entire floor to get an even finish. I had a guy once who had a helper apply the finish to half a large room. Time for another coat. |
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| When I installed the unfinished flooring in our house, I started with 80 grit. Then 100 grit and finished with 150 grit. That was using a sander called a U-Sand. It has four large rotary sanding discs much like random orbit sanders. The flooring I installed is hard maple and I used only oil based floor poly as the finish, no coloring. And it is gloss. The reason I finished with 150 grit is because I am a wood worker and 150 grit is generally the last step for obtaining a good finish on any wood. That grit as the final step allows colorant(stains/dyes) to be absorbed by the wood well and still eliminate scratches. Three coats of most finishes is the recommended amount. That helps the final look and protection. |
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| Thank you, all. Was having computer problems and thus not able to see my question (re duplicate above) or any responses, until now. After reading and inquiring more, I stayed with the sanding at 100 grit (and am applying 2 coats of poly). I was trying to get the same effect as w/screening. My understanding is that the 2 coats will sufficiently cover any small spots/areas where I went down to the wood to get deeper scratches out. It's also all I'm able to invest at this time. Reading the can of Minwax's fast-drying poly, it says it levels well and isn't as (extremely) sensitive to stirring/not stirring (though of course I'll be doing it regularly). I believe with different people (responding to brickeye's comment) working on the same large floor, the topcoat probably matters most, - and consistent stirring for a consistent finish. What a job! 'Wish I could have had pros do it, but doing it myself, am very grateful for input of forums like this. Thanks again. |
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