I realize it's a woodworking machine, but I think you might do better at an electronics forum.

These guys have one for $19

Here is a link that might be useful: one source

Voltage needs to be as high or higher.
Capacitance can also go up slightly with no real effect, but not lower.

Thanx for the replies! This really helps. Does it matter what type of substance the capacitor is filled with (ie. blindstar's link is a list of oil filed capacitors)? However I'm unsure of what the current one is filled with.

Would a 21UF be too much to replace the 18UF with brickeyee? Here is a link to one I found that is $14.65 (says +- 20%): link
I think I need a AC Motor Start capacitor because without it attached the motor just hums and will not spin up, am I correct?

BigFace

21 micro Farad will be fine.

Hi there, I'm back again. So I ordered the capacitor and installed it and everything worked fine, but unfortunately I blew the new one...it "popped" (good thing I ordered two)...lol. So here is my question, should the bench top drill press be able to handle a 3" hole saw at low RPM (the lowest the drill press goes is 620 RPM)? I'd really think it should even if it's a bench top...the drill press does not say how many horses the motor is but I'd think it would be 1/2 or a 1/3. I can use the 3" hole saw with my cordless drill (but I have to charge the batter often) with no problems...surly the little drill press can handle it, no? Doesn't seem so... Not sure if the material matters, but I was cutting through a plywood finished with a raw Oak layer.

BigFace

I hope brickeyee chimes in with an answer. I would not have thought that the load on the motor would effect a start capacitor, but I am way out of my area on expertise.

Sounds like the centrifugal switch that takes the start capacitor out of the circuit after the motor comes up to speed is stuck closed (contact welded).

Depending on the motor it can be easy or not worth the effort to try and replace them.

It is hard to check the switch without looking at it, since it only opens when the motor is running.

sorry brickeye but I have one more question. How do I know if I need a Start or Run Capacitor, maybe the reason the Start blew during load was because I need a Run Capacitor? Thoughts?

BigFace

The value you gave sounds more like a start capacitor.
Run capacitors are usually smaller in value and not used on smaller motors like a drill press.

The start winding could also be blown resulting in a near short applied through the start capacitor, but it is far more common for them to blow open.

We have a Delta 8 inch standing woodworking drill press that the capacitor went out. Its 120 volt. Motor#1349451 serial#w9842 rpm1725, A:2.5. Where can we locate this part.

You will need to find the voltage and microfarad rating on the capacitor itself. It should be printed on the capacitor. Something like "X UF 250VAC". Microfarads may also appear as mf rather than uf. Get a cap for motor use with the approx. same uf rating (+/- 10% but spot on is best), with at least as high a voltage rating.

As for where to get it, you may have a local electric supply house or motor shop that has them. Or you can order from Mouser or Digikey online, or even Amazon. I recently got a motor run capacitor to fix a 1947 electric fan from Mouser for about $3.