Are you planning to use real milk paint, the kind that is a powder that you mix with milk? Or, will you the simulated paint? Real milk paint is absorbed into the wood and does not just sit on the surface. This helps to eliminate the chipping issue. Real milk paint, without a sealer, will spot with oil and normal kitchen use. I always seal real milk paint and follow the instructions for applying milk paint found on a site featuring Michael Dunbar and windsor chair making. If you want the look of real milk paint, I have found no premixed substitute.

That's the same stuff I use. I have never used white or cream, though I do wish I had milk painted my cabinets. The cabinet maker delivered them with primer already applied, so I couldn't use milk paint. It has to be applied to a clean surface with no finish. There are products that help it to adhere to already finished surfaces, but then it is more like regular paint.

I use the oil finish Michael Dunbar uses. I have used just wax and it is not as lasting. My wooden kitchen step stool is now black milk paint. It has also been green and then red. The black has the Michael finish and is holding up great. I think the milk paint site suggests other finishes you can use.

I'd love to know how the white paint looks. I suggest doing a sample board first and subjecting it to the kinds of things it will be exposed to in your kitchen.

I've used Milk Paint made by General Finishes, usually 2 coats, followed by 1 or 2 coats of wipe-on satin poly finish by Minwax. This seems to provide a durable finish.

Good Luck with your project.

I am making more test samples. Corgilvr and Edgemont, thank you for your suggestions for the sealers.

Wow
You are my hero. Making your own cabinets!!
We are having cabinets made and I may paint with milk paint.
Do you have pictures?
Where are you getting your cabinet doors?
Thanks

Sorry, no pics. Tonight we try to put together our third cabinet box, a 30" base. We are ordering cabinet doors and drawers through Scherr's -- but we are very slow and haven't actually ordered any yet. DH says we'll figure out exact measurements for our first door and drawer order tonight also.

Here is a link that might be useful: Scherr's

I'm using milk paint as well on a set of cabs I'm starting to build. I am building raised panel doors and would like to milk paint the panels and rails and stiles before I assemble. Once assembled, will seal and topcoat the whole door.

Anyone know if the milk paint will prevent the glue from bonding the rails and stiles? I'd rather not have to tape off the area that they will meet...although I will if required.

Hi..So Im looking at milk painting my maple cupboards. I know I know...painting wood!!! ahhh...This is what we thought too..but its the only solution we can think of to update our kitchen until we can afford new cupboards. Someone above mentioned that you cant apply milkpaint to a finished wood?? even if I sand it??? Any other tips I need to know??? Thanks...

Julie, Last year I used milk paint on my oak cabinets. They had previously been stained and I sanded them all down to the bare wood. The milk paint was great to work with, plus I didn't have to prime. The paint dries fast in between coats and I put 3 coats of polyurethane over that since these are in a kitchen. I love the results and wish I had done that 10 years ago when we first installed the cabinets! I don't think you can have anything easier to work with than milk paint. I ordered it from The Real Milk Paint co.

Sanding was a job, but then I think it would have been a job regardless of what I used, but I do love the results. Not to mention, milk paint was so much nicer than regular paint as far as clean up and odor goes!