I am usually over on the Decorating or Kitchen forum. This time I have a wood/sealer question so I hope I'm in the right place.

I was finally able to do a very miniscule-budget kitchen redo.
Because of the miniscule budget all our married lives, I'm pretty good at modifying what we have or what we repurpose to make it look presentable.

We couldn't afford bullnose trim on the edge of the counters so we went with wood.
Then, as more of the budget dwindled found out we couldn't afford the really nice stainable wood so we went with a really inexpensive paint-grade wood to use as the trim.

After experimenting in my paint lab (kitchen table) I was able to create a very dark expresso paint using Clear Glaze and UTs.
After applying the dark glaze I didn't care for the sheen on the wood trim.
I used Polyvine Dead Flat Varnish, one coat, to cut the shine of the now painted/glazed wood.

On top of the Dead Flat, I've added one coat of Clear Poly, Oil-base, Satin Sealer.

My question: Do I need to add a second coat of Clear Oil Poly for protection and if so, Do I need to lightly sand the first coat of Oil Base Sealer before adding the second?

I've always used water-base Poly and lightly sanded between coats.
With Oil Clear Poly I'm getting way too many different type of answers when I ask the people at Lowes and Home Depot.
Figured since GW was the place for all my Hummingbird/Kitchen/Bathroom/Decorating answers, I'd come here and get the Correct answer about the Oil Poly.

Thank you all very much.

Amity

I Looked at your kitchen........

Why don't you raise the old range to match the new countertop height ?

Thank you SO much for responding!
I was at a complete stand-still not knowing if I should lightly sand or not.

After a light sanding, should the Oil Poly sealer be thinned a bit for the second coat?

I've never worked with Oil anything, always water-base paint, faux products and poly sealers. I'm so grateful for your response. Again, thank you!

As far as the stove being raised.
If I would have thought out this whole process, I would have caught that little oops beforehand. I didn't.

If you can tell in the below pic, the stove has a pass-through window just above it. So close above it that the very top of the stove, now that it is pushed in all the way, is actually just barely rubbing on the underside of the pass-through bar/ledge.

After all the frustration of such a small mini-budget redo, I am really hesitating asking my husband about removing the overhang of the pass-through.
Unless of course this forum has a good divorce lawyer handy? *grin*

I don't want to disturb your marital bliss......BUT

That stove would bug the heck outtta me/mine.......couldn't be too hard to reset or raise that counter.....of course depending on construction.......

But that's what DIY'ing is about......when you pay YOUR "salary" you can afford to do it again if necessary

How did you handle the switches at the door w/1/2 tile......there appears to be "air" behind the switchplate....

Back to the finish......don't "thin" the finish......straight from the can........for your flat edging a foam brush makes it easy........You can "spot" finish: just sand a small damaged area and apply a coat of finish.......of course the poly usually ages to an amber tint but it will compliment your expresso

In-FRONT-of-the-sink.......a wooden border on tile that gets wet is a problem......keep it dry.....keep an eye on the finish......wet wood will swell and crack the finish....yadayada
Depending on the mounting it may want to pull away from the tile cracking the grout/caulk.........

You are a jewel to respond as you have!

I'll go in order of your post.

*looks over shoulder*
Since husband is not around, and just between you and me, yes, the stove not meeting evenly with the height of the counters DOES BUG ME!

Ok, so I might not lose years of sleep over it but whenever I am at the stove cooking, I keep an eye on the sides of the cabinets. The sides that are higher than the stovetop, worried that I'll get food stuck on there and not catch it in time and it will be like removing hard tar when I do find it.

Also, when I walk in the kitchen and look over at the stove area, the full length/look of the counter on that side of the kitchen really seems to be broken up with that drop in the stove. No continuous nice line of sight.
There, I said it. Feels good to unload. *smile*

You wrote: "Switches over the door w/1/2 tile"
I've looked at the pics several times over and don't see what you are referring to here. Please explain.

First light of the morning (Wednesday) I will get out in the kitchen and start with the foam brush and non-thinned Poly. THANK YOU!

Ut oh. I hadn't thought about the water factor/wood trim at the sink. Well, I did think about it at the time when we realized we'd have to do the wood trim instead of bull nose but it was one of the reasons I decided to use Oil Poly. Figuring the Oil Poly would be enough to protect it, especially if I did enough coats.
I do keep a folded kitchen towel just to the right of the sink and I've always been pretty good about wiping after using the area or even turning on the faucet for a drink. But the circumstances in my home changed recently and I now have two more adults living here who aren't nearly as picky as I when it comes to the little things.
I will definitely keep a close eye on the area.

I tell ya--- I was so excited to finally get rid of the yellow/gold swirly laminate on the counter and up the walls that I really didn't think this budget redo through ---- At least when it comes to the pitfalls.

Again, you are a Jewel -- Thank you so very much for all this wonderful/very helpful information!

Amity

I still don't like the combustable trim (wood? foam?) placed on top of the recessed-stove-edge........