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| Remember me? I have the red oak bar I am finishing with the Waterlox & you so kindly gave me step by step instructions........I have another question. (I have done a search and tried to google for the answer- too many opinions - sorry to bother you again).
I need to fill the small nail holes in both the Bar rail & the fluted Trim. What do I use & when. I have followed your instructions to the letter with fantastic results, including the Red Badger Brush. The scariest part is the next sanding!!! I do not want to screw this project up now :) I am at Step 4:"* Coat 4: Lightly sand with P400 sandpaper. All you want to do is remove the defects like dust nibs and create a toothy surface. Wipe off dust with a mineral spirits dampened clean rag. Thin varnish 10% or so with mineral spirits. Pull out your best brush. Carefully brush on a light coat. When you finish a section, "tip off." Leave the area while the varnish dries. " An update on the color match of the odd fluted trim pcs- I read as much as I could and decided to mix a little Zar Light Cherry Stain in a small amt of the Waterlox until I got the pieces to blend with the rest of the body of the bar, which was a furniture grade red oak finishing with only the Waterlox. I cannot tell which pcs have the stain added & which are straight Waterlox. I Am Proud!! So far, I think you would grade this project an A-.
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Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by bobsmyuncle (My Page) on Tue, Apr 29, 08 at 22:06
| As far as the nail holes go, I'd suggest that you wait until you are done varnishing, then give the varnish at least a week to fully cure. Get a couple of compatible colors of wax filler crayons. If you add two colors smeared together, it is generally less obvious than a round spot of one color. Fill the holes, then buff out with a piece of grocery bag paper. You can get the wax crayon fillers about anywhere. Items you'll find about any hardware store. More colors (96) than you'll know what to do with If you want a smooth as a baby's butt finish, let the finish cure for a couple of weeks, get some 0000 steel wool and furniture wax and rub out the imperfections, then buff off the wax with a soft cloth. I was in a ~$1.5Million house today (on the golf course). Still being finished up. The woodwork was awful. Doors were all splotchy, trim work showed where every nail hole was (filled with putty that wasn't high enough), then painted brown. Fireplace surround had planer marks jumping out because of the stain. I'm glad your job worked out well for you! |
Here is a link that might be useful: Items available at cabinet suppliers & specialty shops
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- Posted by magothyrivergirl (My Page) on Mon, May 5, 08 at 10:38
| Thank You !!! I have learned so much - I am a perfectionist - my eye immediately goes to the flaws - It is amazing how shoddy the finish work here is in very expensive homes. That is why I have learned how to finish drywall - since we have been renovating for the last 7+ years, I have found my learned / developed skills using the right tools is far better than some of the drywall "Pros" we paid. Same goes for the trim work. Takes me longer (alot) but in the end it looks better and professional. I watched some really good guys, asked questions & bought the right tools. Thank you again. I have one more coat to put on of the Waterlox- it is taking each coat longer to dry - the humidity isn't helping - I think it is dry & the next morning it feels tacky. It is looking so good.......... |
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