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| Hi all!
Got another one for you. I have received a bunch of cabinets that are the cottage style. Basically Shaker, but with vertical lines (like beadboard) in what would be the inset flat panel area. I hate the lines.
I see myself putting wood putty, drywall mud, or spackle on them and smoothing it out. The thing is, I am fairly certain I can't do any of that. They're maple and very good quality doors. What could I use to fill in those lines that would be smoothable, that wouldn't crack or buckle with the contractions and expansions of wood. The lines aren't thru and thru, they're scored. If that makes a difference. Your advice is always appreciated! Thanks. C. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| There's no practical way to do this. Unless it's possible to replace the panels (unlikely), you should look into replacing the doors. |
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| Depending on how you plan to use them, you could probably replace the panels with glass. There are lots of varieties besides clear. |
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- Posted by cfmuehling (My Page) on Sat, Apr 2, 11 at 13:36
| Yes. I was afraid of that. I could probably break out the panels, but getting something back in would be impossible. Ah well. I'll have to think about making doors. I'll have to adjust the drawer glides, but I always did want inset, anyway! Thanks, |
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| The way quandary's glass suggestion would work is that you'd use a router to cut out about 1/2" from around the inside of the back of the frame, lift out the panel, replace it with glass and nail in a retaining strip that covers the cut edge. |
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| OK, so call me stupid, but I don't understand why you couldn't fill the gaps as you suggest. You keep the doors inside, the contraction and expansion is likely to be minimal. The filler is not going to fall out. I would happily fill them in if I had those doors. I might want to paint or wallpaper overtop, but if you get wood-coloured filler you may not need to. At least give it a try before you reject the idea and go off sawing, routering, and doing other extreme cabinetry. KarinL |
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- Posted by cfmuehling (My Page) on Sat, Apr 2, 11 at 22:52
| These are drawer fronts, so putting glass in them isn't as easy. We're talking 10" by maybe 20" at the largest. There are a bunch of 4" drawer fronts. If it were the uppers, it would be great. The expansion and contraction in my home is remarkable. Thanks to my infamouse STBX, the hard wood floors in my bathroom cup in the summer. Some of the cabinets I do have contract to have 1/8" seams, but in the winter, the miters all meet just fine. Come to think of it, those are maple, and none of the maple cabinets I have, have this trouble. I might give it a try. I can't see it working well, but I don't have a lot to lose! Perhaps if I sand it so it's a bit porous, the filler might stay. Cracking was my concern. hmmmmm... C. |
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| I was just wandering through the home repair forum and came across this thread about an ugly ceiling (quite educational). It struck me that the idea of latex caulk may be perfect for your cabinet lines. But hey, if these really are just scores, not joints, I really would be optimistic about not having a shrinkage problem. What is STBX by the way? KarinL |
Here is a link that might be useful: Informative thread on Home Repair
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- Posted by cfmuehling (My Page) on Sun, Apr 3, 11 at 8:25
| I'll check it out, KarinL. They're definately scores & not joints. STBX is an early 90s acronym of Soon to be Ex. Funny you're writing this to me. I was just staring at these drawers remembering this calk called Groov, that's acrylic, paintable, and can be used inside out. Reviews say it has the benefits of both latex & silicone. I have to check to see if it's sandable. I'll go read... |
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