Hi,
That looks like a greek-revival or early Victorian era molding to me. I can see the hand planing marks on the flat of that board!
That was shaped with a molding plane, and unless you happened to find an exact match in a panel-raising bit, you would have a hard time making that shape without a custom cut molding knife. If the overall width is less than an inch, there is a table saw moulding head that takes 1" wide blades that can be customized. Sears sold these. Otherwise, it would have to be a universal molding head in a large (1 1/4" spindle) shaper.
Or keep looking on ebay for the exact molding plane.
You could make an angled cut with a dado blade in a table saw, but it wouldn't necessarily be smooth.
Casey

It would take a two or three step process to make that profile with off the shelf tools/bits. Round over router bits at two different angles and a beveled cut with a table saw.

Might be the least expensive way for one or two pieces, but if you need a lot of linear feet, show the profile to a shop that does custom trim work. They can make cutters for their shaper and turn out all you want.

Check at the link below to see if any are a close match on dimension and angle. Otherwise, you're getting good advice above

Here is a link that might be useful: raised panel bits.

Thanks very much for your fast replies. We were very fortunate to save some moldings from an old place that is being tore down. We ended up with around 1000 feet of this gorgeous old clear fir thats at least 100 years old. Some of it is stained the same colour as I stained our new fir doors and windows in our house! The problem is that it came from 2 different buildings. The majority is just a plain 1x4 with a thick brick type molding around the edge. Then the rest has the profile I showed above with the brick mold as well. It's perfect for our new (but old-looking) house.

I think we will take your advice and have the plain pieces custom milled since we have so much of it to do. Do you think the old wood will be too hard to get a nice finish on the edge?
I really appreciate the help

You may get some resistance from the millwork shop to machining the edges of the reclaimed molding, and they may charge you considerably more to do it. There are two reasons for this. One is that the finish on the old wood, bits of wall paint stuck to the edges, along with dirt and putty that is inevitably lodged in it, will dull blades much more quickly than clean, new wood. The other reason is that these boards (some of them, anyhow) will have subtly warped and cupped and otherwise made themselves not-perfectly-straight-and-flat, and this will make them harder to feed through the machinery that cuts the new shape on the edge.

Some of it is stained the same colour as I stained our new fir doors and windows in our house!

Do you think the old wood will be too hard to get a nice finish on the edge?

Not sure what you're asking, but if you mean to save the old finish on the broad surfaces of the boards and achieve a matching finish on the freshly cut edges, then yes, this will be a PITA.

jon1270 thanks very much for your answer those are very good points. We did talk with a fellow at a local mill who is willing to give it a try. He only mentioned to make sure there are no broken off nails. I hadn't thought of warping or cupping. Do you think we should plane them first?
My question was about the wood being so hard and dry, I wondered if the edge might break while it was being cut. I guess we'll just have to try it out.
As far as finish I had hoped to work with the back of the plain boards as they have no finish. On the old finish I have got a very close match with with Minwax Polyshades and it covers the old scuffs and scratches pretty well.
I hope I'm not being too unrealistic, the mill owner offered to try a few pieces before he make up anything special.
thanks again for your answers. the link that bobsmyuncle posted had one raised panel bit that looked close to what we want but if this can work, it sure would save a lot of time.
One more question if anyone is still reading. Are there any tricks for pulling out nails that don't break the wood on the way out? On the pieces that we're using as is, we just cut them off the back but anything that is going to be milled, they have to be pulled out
sorry for being so long winded

The way to remove finish nails without damaging the face of the board is to pull them through the back of the board. A pair of end nippers, which are wire cutters with their cutting edges turned perpendicular to the handles, are very handy for this job. With a little practice you'll be able to grasp the nail right where it sticks out of the wood, and draw the nail through without cutting it by rocking the curved face of the tool against the wood.

I know, everyone seems to think that old wood is terribly hard and dry but this just isn't true. The moisture content of wood depends on the humidity levels wherever it's installed or stored; it doesn't keep drying out forever. Wood can become somewhat more fragile over time if it's exposed to a lot of direct sun, excessive heat, moisture or severe humidity swings, but by and large it should be fine.

There's no way anyone here can judge the best way to handle the material you've got, because we can only imagine its condition and speculate about the capabilities of your local shop. You'll have to rely on that local shop to suggest ways to get the job done with the equipment they actually have.

Here is a link that might be useful: end nippers

I am grateful for your reply and the link. Everyone has been very helpful. I do plan follow the suggestions of the millwork shop and realize that no one can imagine how it will turn out. I was only looking here for advice and thanks to everyone for your ideas