Minwax is not a very forgiving product to allow for 3 coats of stain. You will have a hard time getting much additional color on a 3rd coat without leaving a dangerously thick film of stain muck behind. The first 2 coats have likely sealed pretty well and there is nowhere for the 3rd coat to go but sit on top.
this 3rd coat will likely not dry properly or thoroughly enough to accept your industry standard water poly topcoat. I see problems later with the topcoat delaminating or peeling off, especially in high traffic areas. Even an oil based topcoat will fail if applied over a stain coat that is too soft and not properly dry.

sorry to say but if it were one of the floors I did professionally, I would suggest resanding and restaining with the right color, or possibly using a different method to add tone and shade to the existing 2 coats. I have had great luck using "transtint" analine dyes to tone dewaxed sealcoat shellac as a sealer and color coat over the minwax. You can also use the transtint to put subtle shading into the waterbased topcoat but these 2 options require more application skills than I would expect from anyone who would choose a minwax stain for a floor in the first place. Is this a do it yourself or "builders special" job?

... in addition...
Minwax's Red Mahogany is particularly (and perhaps singularly), even for Minwax, heavy in pigment. This will exacerbate the adhesion issue.

To neutralize orange, you add a little blue. It may be too late for that, for reasons listed by WHW

To anyone listening in, that's why test boards are often run on scrap before committing to the center of the floor (or table top, etc.)

The floors are being professionally done. No sealer yet. The floor guy is recommending top coat of Rosewood. I am having trouble locating a picture of it.