How to identify/match stain colors?

10 years ago

I need to do touch-up on scratches in wall panels and moldings at my mobile home.

Moldings are dark brown color. Scratches are very visible because they show base material color (bright white). I started touching them up but have not had much success yet.

Some wall panels are vinyl with wood patter print. They are dark red color. Base material shows through as bright yellow wood particle board. I had success making invisible repair to this panels with one of my stains.

Some other wall panels are wood veneers and have very light golden color. In few places top finish came off (I assume there was a roof leak a long time ago). I applied clear stain and so far have not had much luck matching the finish.

I have a bunch of little stain cans (about 40 or so) that been handed to me by relatives over the years that I haven't had much use for till now. I need to figure out which ones would work the best, but not sure how to go about selection? They rarely have color printed on the label and I haven't had much luck finding color charts for them.

Would it work if I open up each can and dip a piece of white masking tape in each and let it dry?

Also is there anything I can add to stains to make them flat/ degloss? I think I heard somewhere that talc powder can be used as a de-glossing agent? I want flat/mate finish and stains that I tried come out gloss.

Thanks!

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Comments (5)

User
10 years ago
Depending on the manufacturer, many moldings and wall coverings in mobile homes are simply substrate with vinyl or paper glued on.

Stains only work on porous materials and is said material has had a finish applied, the stain will not work correctly.

Old stains (more than a year or so old), are often useless.

And stains do not dry glossy. That is actually proof of the materials having a finish of some kind.

To match colors, you have already found that trial and error work. And that the areas in which you had success were those without finish.

The masking tape idea is not really the best way. Buy some flat popsicle sticks(craft store) and use those. Those are also good for stirring the liquid in the cans, since most oil based stains are particulate and much of the stain color settles over time.
lazy_gardens
10 years ago
The best way to sample the stains is to shake and stir them vigorously, then take about a 1/2 teaspoon or so and spread it on some pale wood in to a 4x4 or so patch. Label that spot and do the next one.

If you drop several small pebbles or steel shot into the can it helps shake it up.

Keep in mind that the final color will vary de[pending on the base wood, but it gets you in the ballpark.

If you have painted plastic moldings, using a paint made for plastic is the thing to do. Wood stain will not penetrate and will not cover the damage.
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rwiegand
10 years ago
You may find it much easier to use a stain touch-up pen like those in the attached link. You can make several passes to darken the color, or use different colors in successive layers to "sneak up" on a color. For most scratch repair you only need to come close, not hit an exact match for it to blend in quite well, especially if you apply with a fine tip only in the scratch.

If you are seeing gloss you don't have a stain, but rather some kind fo finishing material.

I found the comment about stains not being good after a year curious. I have decades-old cans and bottles of oil stains, water-based stains and alcohol-based stains that all seem to do their jobs perfectly adequately. (Most of my woodworking projects are left natural, so a quart of stain last me a long, long time) In what way are they supposed to fail with age?

Here is a link that might be useful: scratch pens
User
10 years ago
Oil based stains particulate, the stain material sinks to the bottom of the container. Left long enough, that material can almost solidify.

I don't know about water based stains as I stopped using stains about 8 years ago and use powdered dyes now. Water or alcohol based, mix as needed. The powder stores indefinately.
djenyc
Original Author
10 years ago
I went through and identified my stains by shaking each can, opening the lid and smearing stain residue on the back of the lid on to masking paper. I then resealed the can and put masking tape on top for reference.

Popsicle stick is a good idea - thanks! I'll use that in the future - it would give better idea about the color. And might get Furniture Repair Markers Stain - bookmarked for now. Thanks on the tip!

Also - found that some stains penetrated the wood, and some laid on top - basically like paint - I used paint type stain to get very close color match on moldings - the now look brand new. Before they were really beat up.