Sandblasting wood or brick is a rather dangerous task---for the wood/brick. The equipment for a large job is rather expensive---a commercial compressor---like the ones used in street work---is needed due to the amount of air volume needed. And the tank for the sand is about the same size as a 60 gallon standup air compressor.

The sandblasing itself easily destroys wood---removing the softer areas almost instantly and will abrade brick as well.

Paint stripping or sanding takes much longer, but is much easier on the wood and stripping/wire brushing the brick is safer for the brick.

Beware of lead if the paint is pre-1970's, especially if sanding, scraping or other methods that create dust out of the old finish. Can't recall the year when they completely banned it from paint.

The only technique as bad or worse than sandblasting for paint removal is a propane torch, so look into that one while you're at it.
Cons: Destroys smooth mill finish of wood.
Texturizes smooth wood. Makes wood more prone to absorb water. Increased porosity will require more paint. Will etch glass. Allows all of the paint to become airborne - huge problem if it contains lead. Dropcloths will have to be used everywhere to contain blasting media. Requires large industrial (V-8 engine-powered) compressor. Requires full-body protection - very hot uncomfortable hood, too. On brick: destroys hard outer surface of old, low-fired brick, making it too soft to ever be out in weather again. Will affect softer briks more than hard ones, so surface may lose its flat appearance.
That said, it is a necessary evil in very limited instances, such as removing paint from old cast-iron facades. Other media than "sand" is available with greatly-lessened abrasive qualities. It is possblie to use a softer abrasive and at least diminish the damage to remediable levels.
If you have a home that is historic or could later become historic, keep the sandblaster away!
Casey

I believe a lot of the people who replied to you have a fetish for tedious manual labor.

You can sandblast wood and brick just fine IF YOU'RE CAREFUL, and repair/refinish it correctly. For example if you're sandblasting brick, you'll probably need to replace/repair some bricks and mortar when you're done. You'll also need to re-protect the blasted surfaces with a clear coat. (ie. http://www.polyvine-shop.com/coatings_cl.php )

You can purchase wet sandblasting equipment that hooks up to your pressure washer, or dry depending upon what you're doing.

http://www.nextag.com/sandblaster-kits/search-html
http://www.chpower.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/chCat2_10051_10001_10718_-1_10676__

" You'll also need to re-protect the blasted surfaces with a clear coat."

This is really going to protect the brick with its hard fire layer stripped off.

Bricks are not uniformly hard all the way through.

There is a hard surface skin that gives most of the weather protection, but the core of bricks is not nearly as hard.

Stripping away the hard outer layer makes the brick now vulnerable to freeze/thaw damage and allows it to absorb excessive water.

Can wood or brick be sand/water blasted? Sure.

Is it a good idea? Usually no.

Can wood/brick be sand/water blasted correctly. Sometimes.

Brick can be MEDIA blasted rather easily with little danger to the hard outer layer that makes brick weather rersistant. Nut shell particles, grain hulls, and plastic can be used---by TRAINED personnel.

For instance, take the easily rented/bought electric water power sprayers available. 1,300 psi, often the lower pressure setting on a two setting unit is still powerful enouigh to cut/gough some wood decking/siding products.

Point is that if a DIYer does not do the required research and use the correct equipment, really expensive problems will be the end result.