You will need some scraps of the new wood----or comparable pieces. Then you will need a preconditioner, as pine is very blotchy when stained without a conditioner. Be aware some prepared conditioners darken the wood---try it on scraps first.

You can get an idea of the color by looking at the chart in the stain section of the store, most charts include pine.

Buy(Small cans) a stain that matches as closely as possible, but is lighter. Then buy two or three darker colors.

Then stain a small section of a scrap with the closest match and begin to experiment. You can use a cloth to wipe on the stain instead of painting it on and then wiping it off---you can control color much better that way.

Oil based clear finishes will add an amber tint over the dried stain. Shellac will also(except blond) while water based finishes do not add tint.

Most stains used on commercially produced pine pieces is a recipe of several stains, so getting even close to the original will be difficult.

Hi,
I finished this pine beadboard with the following.
sanded with random orbital @ 220.
Stained with General Finishes "New Pine" gel stain.(from woodcraft) This is a very light color, and sealed in one coat- no blotching at all. Plus, I was able to let it fully dry before the next step.
I overglazed the new pine stain with a fruitwood gel stain. This was left mostly in the grooves, but left a little, evenly, on the surface. Then three coats of garnet shellac. I then sanded with 320 before applying the last coat of shellac wiped on with a pad. The bottom of the photo shows that this vitually matches the 100 year old pine floor in my kitchen. The New Pine gel stain worked better than any pre-conditioning process I ever used on pine. Maybe the intensive sanding also helped.

Sumbreuil/Handymac....Thanks for your advice. I'll try it tomorrow