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| I am trying to renovate my staircase and have several questions on structure and finishing that I hope someone will be able to answer.
So far I have removed both half walls that run beside the stringers on the lower half of staircase. A person at HD just told me that the walls I removed were necessary to support the staircase. Should I rebuild these 2x4 walls? A metal railing person is going to weld the pickets to a 1 ½" iron bottom rail and handrail and attach the bottom rail to the stringers.
The 2x4 and drywall under the stringer (form basement stair wall and ceiling) are about 5/8 inch proud of the stringer. The stringer is 1 ½ inch wide (2x10) What is the best way to build out the stringer so that I can trim it nicely and economically? Should I glue and screw 5/8" plywood along the whole length of stringer or just use spacer strips to make flush with the drywall below the stringer and then drywall the whole area with ¼")? Then should I cap the stringer with some kind of nosing (1/2 x2") so the unfinished edge won’t show under the attached iron bottom rail? I would also like to cut back the stringer to give the look of the curtain step as shown in my ‘vision picture’ but I’m afraid that this might jeopardize the integrity of the staircase. My treads are inset into the stringer. I plan on purchasing a veneer hardwood cap to cover the first step.
Can I make the curtain step by extending the width of the first step by about 2-3 inches on each side by gluing and nailing 2x6’s on edge to the side of the stringer or would a plywood box be better? I would have to add another 1" to make the extension level with tread and then cap the tread and trim the riser with MDF.
I also need help on the best way to trim out the staircase.
The last picture is the top of the stairs. The railing person will be elevating the railing on the second floor with metal newel posts attached to the subfloor with metal plates. Is it possible for the top of the stringer on the outside to be cut off flush with the subfloor? I can’t tell if the stringer is notched for attachment to the subfloor or if the staircase is attached to the joists with a hanger board.
Shannon
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Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by sombreuil_mongrel (My Page) on Tue, Feb 9, 10 at 11:29
| Hi, It would be best to employ a skilled carpenter, because these are stairs, and there are inherent safety issues, and you don't want it to squeak and look bad either. The drywall at the bottom can't be left like that. It would be a clever solution to use double-sided 3/4" thick beadboard to finish both sides with a single material, but drywall isn't up to that task without support from framing, the addition of which would spoil the basement flight of stairs, as it would need to intrude into the stairwell. The first tread/riser unit must go in first. It would be built like a box and slipped under the freshly-re-cut stringer. That cut is critical. It must be perfect and there is no margin for error, as it will show. The vertical cut , as per your inspiration picture, will be trimmed back closer to the second riser, and has to be a clean cut. But don't go all the way back to the tread, leave about 3/4". I would probably double up the stringer with a second thickness of 1x12 or "four quarter" (4/4) stock to give a meatier look. Then the seam would be hidden under a capping strip of 1x3, perhaps with its edges molded a bit, that would receive the spindles. You have to decide whether you will add a newel post at the turn; It would be a way to cover the ugly and problematic ends of the stringers there, and add some support, but installation of a newel in this position is a very technical detail, and requires great care and skill. Casey |
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