camouflage these "paneling" grooves

10 years ago

Hi! I bought an old dresser to refinish, and I love it -- it's very heavy and solid and I think it will look gorgeous spruced up a little.

The only thing I dislike about it is this: the outer box, for some reason, has routed lines in it to resemble paneling. I have no idea why this was done, since it wasn't a homemade job, and the box is actually constructed of very heavy thick plywood and not faux paneling. Someone just wanted it to look like faux paneling?

The lines are stained black, to set them off more (ugh) and too narrow for me to get in and sand well. I'd like best to fill them in, even if the color doesn't match exactly (there are some neat bowtie-shaped splines in the top so visible stripes might just look like inlay) and my second choice would be to tone down the color closer to the warm wood shade of the top.

What should I go for here? Stain pen? Judicious use of paint in exactly the right shade? Stainable wood filler (does such a beast genuinely exist)? Specific product recommendations, please. If I stain the wood I'll probably use ZAR since I've had excellent results with that before.

Thanks!

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Comments (5)

klem1
10 years ago
Let's talk about tools you have and experience before choosing an option.
Obivously you are comfortable painting and staining, what about a router? Better still would be laminate trimmer.
I believe filling the grooves would result in poorly defined edges where filler meets origional surface. I agree that stainable filler is a myth. You said they are too narrow to sand but did you consider 1/8th thick plywood with paper wrapped on the edge? Be forewarned that exposed end grain in the plywood will absorb stain unevenly but as it is sanded with finer grit absorbson is somwhat evened out.
kristin_c
Original Author
10 years ago
Hi, I've never used a router (and don't have access to one) or a laminate trimmer. I'd be pretty nervous to go carving away at the dresser anyway.

The grooves are about 1/16" wide.

I'm considering running some (scrap) tests with "stainable" filler. My idea was to fill and sand, then tape off just the filled area carefully with painter's tape and hit it with ZAR -- and leave it on a while to hopefully stain extra dark. If it works, then on the actual dresser I would proceed to stain the rest of the piece and accept the new racing stripes.
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User
10 years ago
Are you removing all the old finish? That is necessary in order to stain with conventional stains.

Using a gel stain(which is really just a modified paint) can be done over existing finishes, however.

You also cannot stain lighter. If the grooves are now black, any stain will just disappear. That means you have to remove the black to change that color.

The idea of using stainable filler is, as you know, tilting at windmills.

The better process, IMHO, is to strip the old finish to start.

Try and find a local woodworker(look for woodworking clubs, ask at any local woodworking stores or real lumberyards---not Home Depot/lowe's/etc., or ask friends). See if that person will route out the grooves and add inlaid strips. Then you can stain away and be assured of a long lasting repair.
kristin_c
Original Author
10 years ago
I was planning on removing the finish with 3M Safer Stripper, since that's what I have experience with and a jug of on hand. Do you think it will remove the black stuff?

Finding someone to route and inlay seems like a lot of trouble to go to for a Craigslist dresser. I like it, but maybe not that much. I may rather end up painting carefully into the grooves with a brown color that blends well, and living with them.
User
10 years ago
Paint the bottom and just have the top be in a wood finish. That way the filler used on the grooves is covered over and not detectable.