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Repairing damaged edge grain butcher block - replacing a board?
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Posted by perel (My Page) on Mon, Jan 25, 10 at 15:04
| I'm installing new butcher block countertops. They're Ikea Numerar Oak, which is a finger-jointed and glued edge grain butcher block.
One of the frontmost boards, right on the front edge, got deeply gouged. Two large chips, which glued back in just fine, and a small irregular section (1/4"w x 1/2"l x 1/4"d) that's gouged.
Is filling this area with putty the best thing to do, or is there a way to remove one board from a piece of butcher block and glue another in? If I do use putty, what's best to use?
I'm not concerned about it looking perfect, it's going to get banged up pretty quick anyway, but it does need to be fairly smooth etc. If the edge keeps getting beat up in regular use I'm thinking of putting some Schluter ECK-K stainless steel edging on it.. |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Repairing damaged edge grain butcher block - replacing a boar
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| To properly replace one piece of wood in a butcherblock top is possible only if you are an experienced woodworker and have access to a table saw, a jointer-planer, lots of clamps, the right kind of waterproof glue, and appropriate power sanding tools. And then it might not be a very good color match after all that work. Aside from simply buying another top, the simplest and least noticeable thing is to use wood filler. There's no way to do a perfect repair, but that size might not be too noticeable. (A skilled woodworker could also do a neat wood patch, but that requires a skill level that is probably beyond yours.) Have you already got this damaged piece installed? If possible, you could rotate it 180 degrees so the damage is at the back. |
RE: Repairing damaged edge grain butcher block - replacing a boar
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| As a baker I use large maple benches (made by Boos) and sometimes we repair small spots in them by dowelling. I'll use a twist drill of the appropriate size, coat a slightly too-long dowel with woodworking glue, and nudge it in. After drying it sands down and nearly disappears. The dowel should slide in dry without difficulty but without sloppiness, either. If one dowel doesn't quite fill the void you can let the glue dry and do another that overlaps the first. It may require a drill guide to get the holes just where you want them. Take a piece of scrap and drill a nice, straight hole of the same size. Locate, and drill throught the guide. Make the scrap long enough that a helper can hold it in place for you if necessary, or so that you can clamp it. It's not a furniture grade repair but might serve your purpose. You can try it out on a back edge, perhaps, to see how you like it. Good luck, Mark |
RE: Repairing damaged edge grain butcher block - replacing a boar
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| If you had a router you could cut the damaged piece out, and make a patch with a piece of hardwood with a template guide. Then glue it in place with waterproof glue. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,1632465,00.html |
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