The bits needed for a router have a very thin point and a short life.

Beading is often applied (made form a separate piece of wood and than attached) or using a scratch stock to shape the edge.

You can find beading bits that are use parallel to the surface, but they have the same problem of fine points and short life.

I looked all over to buy the bead as a separate piece. It's pretty unavailable.

Using scratch stock would require a bit.

Short life is better than no life!

You're telling me I don't need something special to use it on already created face frames?

Hmm..

"Using scratch stock would require a bit."

Scratch stocks use a blade, not a bit.

Nothing rotates in a scratch stock, and the blade can be pretty thick at at the cutting point used to cut in the bead detail.

Applied bead is made by using a round-over bit in a router (or planing and sanding by hand) on the edge of a piece of wood of the desired thickness, then ripping the strip from the larger piece.
Again, you can repeat the process to make more strips.

Repeat until yo have enough bead.

It is tan steamed for any tight curves and applied.

Shallow curves may not need steaming to soften the wood since the small sections are normally flexible and will not crack if straight grained wood is used.

It's hard to cut a bead into an existing faceframe because the corners will never be right. It will be difficult to cut a bead into an existing drawer front because of the short grain on the vertical edges. They like to tear instead of cut cleanly.
It's easier to narrow the drawers and doors and then add a flush bead or even a cock bead (bead projects beyond face of drawer by small amount. Classic cabinetmaking device.) from separate strips of molding as Brick describes.
Casey

Ok.
Since I obviously have no idea what I'm talking about (and will do some online research) I'm setting this whole idea aside. Hoped I was on to something .

Casey, I was wondering about corners.

I haven't figure out how to use my routers yet, and the arm on the table saw has stopped clamping. I'm not that comfortable with the table saw because I hate loud noises.

I'm eying a couple of drawer fronts that are slab (which I want) with a beaded edge. Since my hinges are hidden, this might be my answer.

Hard to decide.
Thanks for the input.
Christine

"It's hard to cut a bead into an existing faceframe because the corners will never be right. "

Even in a new piece the corners are a hassle with a scratch stock.

Some hand work with carving chisels makes the tight turns work.

Just remember to always work away form the sharp corners with the scratch stock to eliminate over-run damage.

Applied beading is normally just mitered.

Examining the pieces I do have and love, I see the bead is mitered, but the frame isn't.
I've never used chisels and don't think I'll start on something this complicated.

[sigh]

"It will be difficult to cut a bead into an existing drawer front because of the short grain on the vertical edges. They like to tear instead of cut cleanly."

"Existing" does not matter, it has always been hard to use a scratch stock cross grain, but it was done that way for a long time.

You take very shallow cuts and a lot of passes.

Mitered bead is applied.
If the edges are straight it is not hard at all.
If the pieces are curved it can turn into a PITA.
Especially on tight curves that can require steaming of the bead.

It needs to be steamed, and then bent to shape and held while it cools. Ten you can go back and cut the miters needed.
If you try and cut the piece to length (and even try mitering them) there is a vanishingly small chance it might match up correctly.

I agree retrofitting is going to be really hard. But for new construction, "there's an app for that." (see link)

Here is a link that might be useful: beaded face frame system

OMG.
I love these Kreg things. I have a couple of their jigs, in particular the pocket hole jig. They make my amateur life so much easier!

(Don't laugh, but I can't figure out how to make that clamp, clamp.)

I'm going to put that in my "to buy" folder. I actually do pick up the things from that folder. I always look there first.

My head is twirling with alternative ideas for face frames and what to do with existing ones. Who says, since I want inset doors, I can't put a new face frame right on top? [LOL]

bobsmyuncle! Thanks:)