Crimp Connectors for Too-small Box

9 years ago

I am putting a pre-set timer fan switch and one light switch in a standard (small) 2-gang box. The in-line Fantech (PB-370) motor has an inductive load and will not fire up with the smaller Leviton timer switch (I assume it has a solid-state relay and doesn't pass enough voltage)... so I got the larger (20A mechanical relay) version.

I cannot get the larger timer switch and all the wire nuts to fit in the box. What to do?
1) Change the box: Drywall, mud, tape, paint... yuck yuck!

2) Use the smaller timer switch, and a relay/contactor in the attic: (Motor draws only 1.1 amps, assume needs a little more for startup. Contactor recommendation?) Requires a lot of attic time... not pleasant.

3) Use crimp connectors instead of wire nuts!! GB 10-410 comes to mind. How does one insulate these? Code ramifications? Any other way of connecting wires, like solder and shrink sleeve?

Ideas and recommendations are most welcome.

Cheers, Shawn

PS: Happy new year!!

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Comments (6)

Ron Natalie
9 years ago
There are listed pushin connectors that are smaller than wirenuts. I've used them when replacing switches inside ceiling fans that have really restricted space. GB makes some and so does Ideal.
OldBiker650
Original Author
9 years ago
Thanks Ron, nice to have the option.... but, the timer switch has all stranded wires which won't work for a push-in. Are crimp connectors against code?
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Ron Natalie
9 years ago
Actually, they will work in the Ideal ones. I have the remains of a bag here from fixing the pull chain switch in my daughter's ceiling fan.
kudzu9
9 years ago
The simplest solution would be to replace the box with a deeper one. I've done this many times and it didn't involve damaging the sheetrock enough to necessitate repairs. I typically use a flat lever, like a Wonderbar, and apply it between the side of the box and the stud. If you relieve the sheetrock a bit on the opposite side of the box with a sheetrock saw, you should be able to avoid significant damage. You simply pry the box away from the stud and angle it back into the cavity. You should be able to pop the nails, or to get enough space so you can cut through them with a bare hacksaw blade. Once you get the wires pushed back out of the holes and the box free, you use an "old work" box, re-insert the wires, and fasten the box in place. If by chance you damage or enlarge the opening a bit too much, just buy an oversize wall plate to cover it up.
Ron Natalie
9 years ago
I have a cute little tool from Milwaukee called a "hackzall". It's essentially a baby battery powered recip saw. Does great job of slicing box nails like that (and less tedious than a hand saw...though I also have a little handle that holds a recip saw blade as well if you want a cheaper solution).

The other option is to cut in a wider (or additional) box.
joefixit2
9 years ago
I also use the handle that holds a sawzall blade to cut the nails. However the OP mentions a small box which may mean its an old, metal box. Some of those have a mounting bracket that is nailed to the face of the stud before plaster. No fun. I have managed to cut that type loose with a 4" grinder but some plaster damage usually occurs. On the other hand if it is one of those old metal boxes with internal nails, just pry them out with sidecutters.