Short explanation: Ask the electrician for an estimate.

Oh, you wanted us to price this without having any of the details whatsoever? OK, here goes:

A ball park estimate is somewhere between $50 and $3000.

Hard to figure out what the questions is.
What is your induction range: (a) is it an induction cook-top with an electric oven; (b) an induction cook-top with an induction/electric oven. Both are electric ranges. I do not think (b) is available in North America yet. Do you intend to keep your already existing electric range - it is just as electric as induction type is? It probably is already on 240V/50A circuit. If you are replacing one electric oven for another electric oven (induction or not) - just use the circuit you already have. Just check the circuit breaker.
Could not make it shorter because of the ambiguity of your question.

terribletom, For all I know $3000 is what it would cost. I did find the answer on another thread though so never mind.

l1234, I WANT the Kenmore induction slide in (aka built in)range with convection oven. It will be the only range I will have. My second choice would be the Samsung freestanding.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=induction%2Brange&vName=&x=23&y=0

Third and fourth choices would be freestanding Kenmore or GE in no particular order.
The range I have now is an Amana freestanding glass top with convection oven. I don't know what kind of info you need and I may not know the answer anyway, just wondered if It was going to be as costly as running the electric for the heat pump or more like just adding another circuit to the breaker box. I try not to have anything to do with electric wire.

Here is a link that might be useful: Kenmore slide in induction range

Pinch Me,

You simply didn't provide enough information for anyone to accurately answer your question. The problem with pricing is that there are so many variables that the best you may come up with is a very rough ballpark. Unless you get your number from a neighbor who has the exact same house as you do, has the exact same work done, by the same contractor. Even then, you might not get the same number.

Your best bet is to get some electricians in and get estimates.

If you have an electric range now go to the circuit breaker box and open the cover and look at the breaker for the range. It will be a double breaker with numbers on the handle. Report back with the numbers.

#19 & #21 labeled kitchen range each say 40 amp.

The wire needs to be a size larger and the breakers need to be changed. How far you have to go and how difficult it is to access the wires determines the cost. Also where you live, some places are way more expensive than others.

Thanks, hendricus. The range is almost directly above the breaker box so it shouldn't be too bad. I still remember getting the bill for the heat pump wiring so I am much more cautious now. This should be doable. I won't be afraid to call the electrician. I wonder......if I should have him do it now when I have the kitchen torn up anyway and before it gets any more expensive or is it just a matter of pulling the old wire out and the new wire in? And a 50 amp breaker. It will never get cheaper but I can't think it would get a lot more expensive in a year's time. The new range was not in the original remodel plan.

As the available facts unfold, it's beginning to look like you have close to the best case scenario. (The true best case would be if you were simply swapping out a range already wired on a re-usable 50-amp circuit, in which case the cost might be zero.)

The next best case would be that your present 40-amp range circuit is actually wired with 4-conductor 6-guage wire (6-3 w/ground). While that might have been slight "overkill" when the original range was wired, it is something that does happen from time to time. (It's not inconceivable that the original electrician roughed in the circuit to meet maximum demands and learned later that a 40- not 50-amp range/oven was being installed. So, he/she may have subsequently put in a 40-amp breaker even though the wiring would supprt a 50-amp breaker.) If that's the case, the present wiring might be sufficient and you might only need a new breaker. (That's the $50 end of the estimate).

Assuming that the wire must be replaced (seems likely, as Hendricus notes), the fact that the range is close to the breaker box is a big plus. Knowing that, and further assuming that there's good access to the run, you are now probably looking at something in the order of a couple hundred bucks or so.

[I'd also note that, in addition to a new breaker, you may need to replace the receptacle at the other end. But this is no more than about a $25 item.]

So where'd I get off with a maximum of $3000? Well, you'd only incur that sort of expense if your entire electrical service were already close to the point of overload and the **addition** of a new 50-amp circuit, together with other increased load demands of your kitchen remodel, forced an upgrade of your whole house's electrical service under difficult conditions, in an expensive area of the country.

From the information given in the original post, that couldn't be ruled out.

BTW, you should definitely call in an electrician while the kitchen is torn up, rather than waiting until the walls are closed and finish work has progressed.

It will never get cheaper but I can't think it would get a lot more expensive in a year's time."

Nods. While I don't have a crystal ball, you're probably right. Funny, though, that copper wire is actually cheaper now that it was a couple of years ago, although it appears to be headed back up. It's a volatile market and if you could predict it with certainty, you could make a fortune on the commodities markets.

In the meantime, the recession has deflated the price of labor markets in some pockets of the country. Depending on your local economic conditions, you may well be correct: If the housing market makes a big recovery and copper skyrockets, it could be a good bit more expensive in a year's time. But who knows?

Oops. I need to correct a slip of the fingers:

Instead of "4-conductor 6-guage wire (6-3 w/ground)", please substitute "three six-guage conductors plus a ground".

Too bad we didn't all buy stock in the copper wire market. Maybe I'd still have my 401.
The plan as I see it is, get the electrician to put in the new service now - use it on the "old" range - and when I get rich enough to buy the dream range I'll be good to go. New breaker, wire and outlet. This old, Old house has been very well maintained but I wouldn't expect the 40 amp to have been made any more than that. Thank you. I won't feel completely lost when I call to get this scheduled. They always ask stuff I don't know. BTW the answer I found earlier in this conversation is on this site. Answered quite nicely, too. Had I found it first there would have been no need for me to ask again.

Here is a link that might be useful: link to this same question

...and had you made it clear you were replacing one range on a 40A circuit with another that requires a 50-amp circuit, this thread would no doubt have resolved quickly.

BTW, I don't see any discussion of cost in that other thread. Unless I badly misread the OP, that was the principal question posed here.

Ah, nevermind. Sounds like a plan -- at least have an electrician put in the new cable while the walls are open. (It is possible that you may have to swap the receptacle or hardwired connection later, but that's no biggie.)

All's well that ends well.

/finis