I can't see the pic because that appears to be a link into your internal shuterfly account.

The switch plate screws typically go into the switch yoke itself. If they bottom out before the plate is flush it's because the switch is standing too proud of the finished surface.

try this one

Here is a link that might be useful: try this one

Is the box so crowded behind the device(s) that it cannot fully seat against the face of the box?

I looks like the box is not deep enough fr the dimmer & the wire nuts at the back.

Even if the fill is within allowances, you can still run into problems with dimmers.

You might try moving the wire nuts to the other side so they are not behind the dimmer.

what if I get a two gang old work electrical box?
Im also thinking of replacing these metal wall outlets with vinyl.

What the hell kind of hack job installation is this? What is that ridiculous dry wall screw through the box at the top left? How about getting someone with a clue to do you wiring?

ronnatalie

here is my dilemna.

The left side of that wall plate is only being used. The right side is just a plastic dud switch.
In other words the right side of that wall plate doesn't connect to a light switch. This poses a problem because the screw cannot go in tight on the right side. How can I modify it?

this is what I have on the right side of the wall plate

Here is a link that might be useful: blank insert

"What the hell kind of hack job installation is this? What is that ridiculous dry wall screw through the box at the top left? How about getting someone with a clue to do you wiring?"

That's great Ron - took the words right out of my mouth! This looks like some sort of Jeff Foxworthy setup for a joke! Masking tape on the top right, dry wall screw holding in a piece of broken plastic on the left, and a little duct-tape in the middle! Oh, I almost forgot, the wood shims crunching in the left side of the box.

Yes, an old-work box may help correct this, but please get someone who has a clue!

here are some new pics

Here is a link that might be useful: new wall plate

You will never get a plate to sit perfectly flat against that textured wall, especially with all that damage to the plaster around the edge of the box. Instead of using that dummy switch, what I'd do is get a medium-size, nylon plate that has the decorator opening on one side and is blank on the other. The blank side will have screw holes positioned to screw directly into the box holes (you may have to get longer screws).

The nylon is more flexible than the typical rigid plastic plate, and the larger size will cover up that chipped plaster around the edge of the box. You'll also want to replace the plate on the adjacent box so that they look the same. I've had pretty good luck finding these type of plates at the big orange box store.

Loosen up the screws on the blank plate.

Just to state the obvious.... you need to get a razor and clean up all those plaster edges around the box. Nothing is ever going to sit flat on an uneven surface.