Frankly, if you're unsure about wiring a circuit it might best be left to a licensed electrican.

The following picture in pretty good assuming you are going to use NM cable (i.e., Romex). In your case the cable labeled "power source" would come from the nearby outlet. What the drawing doesn't show is the ground(ing) conductor, which needs to be maintained throughout the circuit. The second drawing shows the grounding conductors more clearly. Note that the ground(ed) conductor (neutral) goes only from the first switch (where the "power source" comes in) to the fixture.

Hi Mike, thanks for the response. I am actually not going to be connecting the wires. An electrician will be putting in the switches and the fixtures. My job is to get the appropriate cable run under the subfloor before the floors are laid (after which point, many holes will need to be made in walls that have been freshly smooth coated. The actual configuration is: light switch, light fixture, light switch, light fixture. So there is one more light that needs to be included in your diagram. The big question is: Do I need to include (2) 3 wire romex between each fixture?

You would extend the circuit from the first fixture to the second fixture with two wire cable (Romex). Without doing any fancy drawing I indicated the wire connections with the arrowed lines.

The rest of the wiring should not be changed.

thanks Mike! the 12/2 Romex can go directly from fixture to fixture, no need to pitt stop at 2nd switch location, correct?

I'm not that bright, but 12/2 is kinda large for a simple light circuit. 14/2 should be sufficient and a bit cheaper.

The gauge of the wire is predicated by the amperage of the circuit. Typically 14 gauge for 15 amps circuits and 12 gauge for 20 amp circuits.

There's some exceptions for fixture whips but I'm not sure we could call this one.