As for the ears by the green arrow, that's not a problem. Just put in a wooden shim of the right thickness (with a small hole in the center) to make the space behind the ears flush with the granite. It looks like you have sheetrock behind that bottom hole, so that is not going to prevent the receptacle screw going all the way in once you have it shimmed properly. (If you have particularly long screws that are a problem, get yourself some short -- 1/4" -- ones at the hardware store.)

The hole by the red arrow is a different story. The GFI receptacle will need to be pulled out of the way so that a small hole can be drilled to allow for the top receptacle plate screw. You could do this with a diamond bit drill or a masonry bit, but it is tricky if you haven't done this before, and you could damage the granite or crack it. I would get the installer back to take care of this part of the fix if I were you.

The granite guy will have no problem making those holes. I have diamond coring bits that I've cut similar holes, it's not going to be a problem. Do not use a regular masonary bit.

I sure hope that's a mud ring on that box there and not a utility box that you're almost certainly exceeding a box fill on.

The granite guy will have no problem making those holes. I have diamond coring bits that I've cut similar holes, it's not going to be a problem. Do not use a regular masonary bit.

I sure hope that's a mud ring on that box there and not a utility box that you're almost certainly exceeding a box fill on.

I have that same granite!!! :)

And from the pics you cannot tell how close the front if the box is the the granite surface.

It must be recessed no more than 1/8 inch.

I believe the maximum setback is 1/4" for non combustible materials. ('08 NEC, 314.20) The easy fix for holding the receptacle flush with the granite is spacers, ie: nuts, washers, loops of copper wire or purchase a commercially available product like the one in the link I attached. The offending bit of granite that prevents the cover screw from being installed can be quickly removed/notched with a high speed rotary tool and diamond or abrasive wheel.

Here is a link that might be useful: Try these for $6.

Well it's actually 6mm :)

You could use some box extenders

There are even flat sheet metal pieces that can be used to reduce the opening size slightly when an extender is not needed, but the plaster ears fail to catch.

1/4 inch is correct of the box, I was thinking of the box to surface clearance on the sides and top.