Is the light a pull chain fixture or controlled by a wall switch? If it is switched, have you checked for power to the switch? Have you been crawling around in the attic getting out christmas decorations?

In similar situations I have almost always found the problem to be a bad connection in a nearby back-stab receptacle, or it could be a back-stab switch. Sometimes just the action of extending the device from the j-box will restore the internal conductivity, but I replace it anyway. Finding the culprit is a matter of guesswork.
Back-stab devices are connected by inserting the stripped wire into a hole where it is retained by a spring clip. Deposits can build up over time on contact points and conductivity is lost.
YMMV

Thanks for the help!
The switch testes good!
The problem is no power to the box.
The electrician used the screws not the push in connector for the receptacle & switches.
However, I am in the painful process of checking all nearby boxes for an open.

I am seeking an elegant way to troubleshoot this problem w/ a circuit tracker. I am OK spending $125 for a tool to solve this problem. I want to connect this infamous tool to the hot & neutral ��" transmitter & use a receiver to identify the box that contains the open. Where am I going wrong?

Thanks!
Andy

Does the switch test out ok because you have power moving through it, or did you test it in a de-energized state and use a continuity tester? If it's a single pole switch and power is moving through it and the fixture is the only thing controlled by that switch then the interruption may be happening in a buried splice or box. A change in the closet door opening or a new ceiling may be the reason for the burial, but it shouldn't be inaccessible under any circumstances.

The switch checked good w/ an ohm meter. There is 0 volts going to the box before the switch. Still have not located the problem.
Thanks!
Andy