Yes, actually it doesn't matter which color lead of the meter you use where. All the terminals on the neutral bar should be at the same potential.

I know these are basic questions I should know, so thanks for clarifying. I was always confused if I had to test hot to neutral on wires sharing the same raceway.

How about testing from hot to ground with a breaker? Or is that what I am doing by testing on any screw of the neutral busbar? Or would I test from the hot to the side of the metal enclosure in that case?

YOur propbably thinking I shouldnt be sticking things in breaker boxes if I have to ask these questions!

Some multimeters have built-in protection against damage from being used on the wrong function or range. But some will be instantly ruined if set for resistance (ohms) and then the test leads are placed across 120 volts.
To test for the presence or absence of power, much simpler, lower cost, and more foolproof testers are available.
Exactly what test results are you seeking and why?

The other thing is to not be fooled by open circuits. The digital meters are usually of sufficiently high impedance that they'll read something on a long unterminated wire.

Thanks Busdriver, I was just testing to to assure I am getting proper voltage at breakers.

I picked up a new multimeter the other day and wanted to put it thru the tests. In fact as Ron mentioned, it has a low impendance function to avoid phantom voltage readings. It can read both voltage AC/DC and continuity at the same time. The function is not for testing of electronics though.