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| I am installing a new vanity light. It has three bulbs. It is pretty heavy, about 6.5lb without bulb. I am afraid it is too heavy for a plastic electric box. I want to minimize the drywall damage. Right now I am thinking of three options:
1) mount the light onto the stud, dig a small hole in the drywall near the stud, and connect the wires inside the compartment of the light. 2) use the adjustable all-metal electric box: MB120ADJ
3) mount the light onto the stud, and install a old work plastic electric box nearby for wire connection. The electric box can be covered by the light compartment. Which is the best solution? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| 6.5 pounds is not heavy. 65 pounds is heavy. |
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- Posted by ronnatalie (My Page) on Tue, Sep 22, 09 at 8:37
| 6.5 isn't comparatively heavy, but it may be more than a lot of old work mountings can handle on drywall. The plastic ones with more substantial flip out wings will fare better than the bendy tab metal things. A toggle bolt or hitting the stud in addition isn't a bad idea. |
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| 6 lb is the limit for the old work plastic box. See the last sentence at the last page of http://www.carlon.com/FAQs/FAQ-ZipBoxes.pdf I plan to mount the light directly onto the stud without any box. Then I will not worry it would fall down someday. Is there any concern in terms of wiring? |
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| The only concern would be if the fixture is rated as a junction box to allow connections to made within the fixture thus not requireing a junction box. Does the fixture have knock out where a cable clamp can be installed? If not then a box may be required. |
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| I don't think the fixture is rated as a junction box. It has no knock out. Can I use wire staples to secure the wire on the stud? |
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| All connections MUST be made in a box. If the fixture is not rated as a box then you must install a box. The fixture can still be mounted to the wall for support. |
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| I plan to use a metal pancake outlet box, which can be mounted at the face of 2x4 directly. |
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