Problem with terminology? You described a "surface unit". Some ranges do have receptacles for plugging in coffee makers and the like.
She may never again be at ease with that range. Tell her to use it a few times and see how it works. And forget it.

I think I'm using the correct terminology. It's probably confusing because range/cooktop parts share the same term "receptacle". Here is a receptacle kit , another receptacle aka terminal block , here is a burner/element that "plugs into" the receptacle.

Though your advice is probably correct, I was hoping maybe someone who has worked on these before would know if some interior components may now be "flaky" or worse yet susceptible to overload and/or fire.

Any equipment that plugs in is using a receptacle to make the connection.

This is an appliance idiom, and NOT an electrical code idiom.

Many older electric ranges had a 120 V convenience receptacle on them, without any additional overload protection provided.

It was across a 30-40-50 amp fuse/breaker.

They are no longer allowed (and should bot be repaired).

The electric ranges with a 120 volt receptacle did have an Edison base plug fuse somewhere in the range. Perhaps in the control console or under the oven accessible by pulling out the drawer. I saw the fuse in one this week.

I always thought they were banned because it was thought that the cord running over the stove was dangerous.

I don't mind filtering out non-relevant cross-talk, that's what makes threads interesting after all. But are *any* responses thus far relevant to the original question, since it was a range cooktop withOUT an electrical outlet (surface unit)?

The original question was: would a one-time short from the unit's hot against the grounded metal catch tray be likely to cause any of the components to be less reliable and/or more dangerous?

I can go take pictures and track down the wiring diagram if needed.

"The electric ranges with a 120 volt receptacle did have an Edison base plug fuse somewhere in the range. "

Many had no additional protection.

I scrapped out a 48 inch wide one a few years ago with no protection.

All of the wires in question are designed to handle a lot of power continuously though less than the maximum for the whole range. How long was the short active, less than a second? The breaker was not tripped so the heat was limited. If it were my range, I would not worry. I, however, might know less about it than you do.

More dangerous? Probably not.
Less reliable? Perhaps the control for that element might have been stressed a bit.

Neither are anything that I would worry about.

>>> How long was the short active, less than a second?
Yes, less than a second. A tiny bit longer & louder than other quick shorts I've seen on 110 lines. Probably an echo affect from that catch basin. It did however burn through the outer coating, now showing a shiny (silver?/aluminum?) metallic fleck like core.

>>> If it were my range, I would not worry.
>> Neither are anything that I would worry about.

OK thanks for your help.

When my cooktop element supply wires shorted it sounded like popcorn popping and the circuit breaker did not trip. It did not smell like popcorn ;-(

"I scrapped out a 48 inch wide one a few years ago with no protection."

Makes one wonder about UL Listings.

All of a sudden I am finding this much more interesting. In order for the UL to reject this design, there must be hazard, to person or property. If there is nothing like a fuse in the range, this outlet would only be protected by, what, a 30- or 40-amp fuse in a panel.

If there is excessive current on the outlet, the outlet will heat up and melt or the wires will burn. Maybe the outlet and wires are rated for 30 or 40 amps. OTOH, maybe the level of concern is low because all of the flammable stuff is enclosed or installed in a metal chassis that will not burn. If the cable in the walls is stressed, it is protected to the level it needs to be by the panel equipment.

The way I understand it, using a fuse or circuit breaker to protect the appliance or cord connected to an outlet is not the concern in the USA though it is elsewhere.

You understand what I am thinking?

I know that my mother acutely missed the outlet when her range was changed-out. The 1959 kitchen did not have enough circuits for her early 70s kitchen small appliances and she tended to use it for the electric griddle when making pancakes for a family of 6.

"If there is nothing like a fuse in the range, this outlet would only be protected by, what, a 30- or 40-amp fuse in a panel. "

My guess would be that the high temperature insulation is more than capable of carrying enough current to trip a breaker or open the fuse.

The fusing current of even #14 wire is very large (around 166 amps).