One option would be to replace the three-way thing there with a "surge strip" or the like that will plug where the moulding is and then you can hang your timer or extension cord down in the bottom one.

http://www.thefind.com/appliances/browse-leviton-grounded-triple-outlet-tap

You do have more choices on outlet taps.

Hire an electrician to add a dedicated circuit/outlet for the a/c and quit trying to cobble something up.

Uh, if there's too much of a surge of electricity, I think the worst that could happen is that I'd have to reset the circuit breaker. At which time I can then consider a dedicated outlet, don't you think?

btw, how much should a dedicated outlet cost to install?

For now - I have a followup to above responses:

(1) Which one of the triple outlet taps in the above link
(or surge strip??)
is advisable to try -- and safest
and

(2) should it be plugged into the upper or lower socket?
And then:

(3) Where should the:
..timer
....and microwave and other plugs go?

(4) I'm considering Walmart's Brink's analog timer.
The Walmart online site shows two different models.
Are either of these OK? See:

"btw, how much should a dedicated outlet cost to install?"

It depends on so many aspects of the job including, what kind of walls, going through the attic or basement, how far from the box. If a modern, typical house, I would venture $150-200.

are you saying you are plugging in a microwave oven and an
AC unit into the same plug ? If so you might want to up grade
your fire insurance. Then again if the insurance company finds this on your fire investigation, and they will, you can kiss your insurance good by. Ever seen a breaker fuse and not
trip ? I've seen lots. Good luck

Don't overload and rely on breakers. Having the AC and microwave on the same circuit is not advisable. Even a small microwave paired with your AC unit will likely exceed the rated amps of the circuit, and that's not taking into account anything else that you likely have on that circuit.

Getting an electrician in to add a dedicated circuit is the best thing to do here. Until you do that, make it so you have to unplug the AC unit before you can plug in and use the microwave.

"Uh, if there's too much of a surge of electricity, I think the worst that could happen is that I'd have to reset the circuit breaker. At which time I can then consider a dedicated outlet, don't you think? "

No, overloading an outlet like that is much more dangerous than you appear to believe. Assuming a 20amp circuit, that still means the receptacle itself is only rated to 15amps and those splitters are NOT designed to handle heavy current draws. Either could start a fire.

The breaker will hopefully protect the wiring inside the wall, but is isn't going to fix the mess you are creating outside the wall.

Agree with posters who posit that you need to live without the one A/C for the relatively few minutes you use the mu-wave oven. That said, never pull the A/C plug while unit is running--use the OFF switch.

Most 5,000 BTU wall-bangers only draw about 5 Amps, not counting start-up surge.

Most newer A/C units have a scheduler/timer function, so I'm guessing these are older units, hence the timers...?

We're just tryin' to get you through the summer, without burning down the house... your little A/C units just can't handle THAT kinda heat load. ;')

PS: Don't you just LOVE when timers made in ChiCom-land are "rated" at 15Amps, but get dangerously hot when drawing only 1/3 of that load? I "love" it almost as much as when they add extra lead to baby toys, oh yeah... >:( GRRrrr...

OK, guys, gotcha - thanks for the caveats.

To Fixizin:

My AC is a basic unit, but recent model:
Frigidaire FRA052XT7

Re: your statement about ChiCom-land, was that your way of advising against?? the timers in my above pics??

I don't know about those particular timers, but look for something rated for Appliances. A Light timer won't do the job.

"Then again if the insurance company finds this on your fire investigation, and they will, you can kiss your insurance good by."

You are insured against your own mistakes.

Try reading a policy.

If the insurance company does NOT disclaim you are covered.

Does anyone here know whether either or both of those timers are good?

Note: both of them are 15 amps. I just now checked the site.

a) you want a timer that is specifically rated for heavy duty appliances or specifically for air conditioners. mechanical one are about $15 and digital ones $20-$25. Are teh timers you are looking at specifically rated for heavy appliances?

B) your quesiton on determining how to turn off a breaker or how to determine if the breaker is off and your consideration of latex gloves makes me beleive YOU ARE NOT the person to open a receptacle to even just turn the receptacle around. that is no judgment on you, you may have lots of other skills people who can do that don't have. you don't need an electrician but you do want someone who has done it before.

C) how old is your home? from the pics it looks pretty old. the wiring and insulation is already degraded from age use. power strips, extension cords, and receptacle multipliers pictured are meant for light duty appliances, NOT for combining microwaves and air-conditioners on an outlet.

Can you aggregate the "amps" on the appliances you are attempting to plug in? those are all on visable labels on your appliances.

As others have mentioned the lenght of extension cords, more importantly the gauge or thickness, and the number of connections, cord to timer, to cord, to multiplier, increase resistance, tiny arching etc.

not just each length, but each connection increases increases the resistance of the circuit.

If all that adds up to 10 amps on an older 15 amp circuit you want to get an electrician to give an estimate to wire up a new circuit. running new circuits which will be enormously helpful and safe, can range from $300 to 1500 depending, but there is a very good chance you will be lucky and some electricians give free or inexpensive setimates

Look at the LRA and FLA ratings on the timer. The higher, the better for use on a window AC unit, but as long as they match or are higher than the AC specs, you should be fine.

It is getting darned difficult to find simple timers any more that have removable on and off pins. I could not find any in stores and had to mail-order some for the cases when I want to be able to turn on and leave on (like air conditioners) or turn off and leave off (like battery chargers) equipment.

Really, I'm not trying to be a smart-aleck, but if one is going to turn it on and leave it on, a timer is not required. A switch sounds more useful.

ionized, can you please clarify:

"as long as they match or are higher than the AC specs"

P.S. Thanks for all the feedback!

P.S. to T45:

All the outlets in kitchen are on a 20 amp line (all one line).