|
| I had to move three switches to a new location. The guys doing the work ran the electrical wires from the old switch location to the new location by going horizontally through the studs. At the old switch location the installed a metal box, spliced the cables inside and drywalled over it.
From what I understand now it is not code to drywall over a spliced location. Are there any exceptions? Would you guys leave it as is or would you recommend I cut off the wire at the attic location, add a junction box in the attic and re-run the wires to the new switch location through the wall? I would have to leave the old disconnected wire and box buried in the wall. |
Follow-Up Postings:
|
| "From what I understand now it is not code to drywall over a spliced location. Are there any exceptions? " There are no exceptions. Accessible is defined as not requiring damage to a finished surface to gain access. The box should have been left with a blank cover plate. "Would you guys leave it as is or would you recommend I cut off the wire at the attic location, add a junction box in the attic and re-run the wires to the new switch location through the wall? I would have to leave the old disconnected wire and box buried in the wall." This is fine and code compliant as long as you are SURE the box is completely dead. There is no requirement to actually remove decommissioned cables or boxes. You should never let these fools into your house again and should report them. Their next 'customer' may have no idea. |
|
| Thanks... Sounds like you are saying I should fix it. Its an easy fix so I am going to do it. I will sleep a little better at night. Is it a stupid code or is it a fire hazard? |
|
| Does the junction box in the attic need any space away from insulation? |
|
| It is not a stupid code. Cables don't fail. However connections do fail. If the junction box is buried inside a wall there is no way to fix a connection if it fails without smashing out the drywall. Of course you need to know the junction was there to even go look for it. Fix it. |
|
| "Does the junction box in the attic need any space away from insulation?" No. Insulation is not a finished surface. |
|
| If the junction box is buried inside a wall there is no way to fix a connection if it fails without smashing out the drywall. When demolishing older homes--pre-1940s--I would notice great clots of wires wrapped in tape at certain points behind the walls. Don't know if that was standard practice of the time, or just bad practice. Imagine trying to trouble shoot a dead circuit with that arrangement! |
|
| I wouldn't say that "great clots of wires" were the norm, but in the days of knob and tube, not all splicing was done in j-boxes by any means. Pigtails to devices were often spliced to the wires at a knob. In some cases they were then connnected to the devices without any boxes at all - just a length of loom on each for additional protection. This was typical for a ceiling light fixture, for example, where the fixture canopy was the box, screwed right to the ceiling surface. All this sounds riskier than modern practice, and I don't doubt that it was. But there were a couple of mitigating factors. First, the kinds of loads we routinely see today were just about unheard of. Many times a room would be lit by a single 40 or 60 watt incandescent bulb (it sure beat the light of a gas lamp!). About the only large appliance you'd find regularly in those early days would be a flatiron (though space heaters and toasters seem to have caught on fast). So loads were much lower. Many homes were wired with just four 15-amp general purpose circuits, and maybe an electric range receptacle. Second, those splices were soldered and taped with insulation equivalent to the wire's (meaning a layer of rubber tape and a layer of cloth friction tape). Solder is great stuff, when properly applied to a mechanically solid connection. It reinforces the splice and seals it against oxidation. The techniques of the K&T days were pretty good ones, certainly for the needs of the time. Also, my impression has been that most of that wiring was done by pros (though I live in a house where the original K&T was either DIY or done by a VERY careless pro). It's too bad that the rubber insulation used in old K&T has rotted from age, heat, and the gunk we've put in our air over the years. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Electrical Wiring Forum
Instructions
- You must be a registered member and logged in to post messages on our forums.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review the contents and make changes.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- It is illegal to post copyrighted material without the owner's consent.
- HTML codes are allowed in the message field only.
- No advertising is allowed in any of the forums.
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.