Unless the receptacle connection is obviously loose, being cord and plug connected is most likely not the problem.

I'm happy to hear I don't have to rewire this DW.

DW is still under warranty, so I'll call and see if they can figure out the intermittent abandonment mid-cycle (two LEDs flash, I believe, when that happens, but I have not quite seen it myself, this is my parent's house and it has not done it while I was there).

I'm in the process of remodeling my kitchen, and I want to go from hardwired to plug in. I've replaced the dishwasher twice since I bought this house (25 years ago), and climbing into the cabinet to wire the new unit is the hardest part of the job. As long as I'll have an electrician here anyway, I'm having him put in a regular outlet.

"climbing into the cabinet to wire the new unit is the hardest part of the job"

Dishwashers normally have a junction box at the front of the unit so they can be pushed into place and ten the connections made.

The cord attaches to the same junction box.

Al you have to remember to do is NOT push the electric cable back into the DW recess when sliding the new one in place.

It is often harder to route the cord and plug into the adjacent cabinet than to connect a cable to the junction box.

Yep, I've wired the front end of it as well. The last time we took out a DW, however, my husband disconnected the wire at the wall, as well as at the front, so I had to do it over again. And while the junction box is at the front of the DW, it is still at the bottom, which involves laying on the floor to connect the wires and enclose them. I'm a rickety old lady, and I'm always looking to minimize time spent crawling around on the floor!

"HOWEVER, I also looked at the dishwasher owner�s manual and it does want me to use a hardwiring power supply method."

If the manual says that you have to hard wire it, how did it get a cord and plug? Someone screwed up the installation.

"The last time we took out a DW, however, my husband disconnected the wire at the wall"

I usually do not even install a JB at the wall.

The branch circuit conductors run right to the DW and that is the only load on the circuit.

The newer DWs without heated dry pull significantly less power, so I would now consider putting a garbage disposal on the circuit.

Run the feed to the GD switch, then a pair of runs.
One for the GD the other to the DW.

I rarely see cord and plug connected GDs or DWs.

Both my DW and GD are cord & plug. My current house in KY (built 2000) and my prior house in NH (build mid 1980s)

My DW is hardwired, but my new GD will have a plug so we can install an air switch. If we were sticking with a wall switch or batch feed, we would have kept that hardwired too.

Just wanted to chime in with what I hope is a valid reason :-). My Waste King comes corded so that helps.

Well, a third party repairman was sent to my house on behalf of the entity issuing the dishwasher warranty (I imagine that is Frigidaire itself?).

He said that both the Dishwasher âÂÂMotorâ and the âÂÂControl Boardâ need to be changedâ¦

Does this sound reasonable? I know IâÂÂm personally insulated from the repair cost since the dishwasher is still under warranty, but apart from ethical questions, am I also increasing the risk I end up with a lemon dishwasher once major parts are tinkered with by an out of factory technician?

I meanâ¦You know what happens to your car when various parts have been replaced by various garages outside the manufacturing site settingâ¦