How did you test the fuses? Is there another fuse or circuit breaker panel?

I replaced the fuses on the affected circuit with new ones and it made no difference (replaced them on the fuse box).

Plug fuses sometimes require tightening with considerably more torque than one imagines.

The sudden surge of a dead short can also cause a poor connection somewhere in the circuit to become an open connection. Specifically, I'd look at the receptacles and switches in the circuit and replace any back-stab devices found (they are notoriously unreliable), while also looking for loose connections and anything that 'looks wrong'.

It appears that you assumed that the new fuses were good. They almost always are so, but not absolutely always. At this point, it is necessary to examine everything in the most minute detail. Test all the fuses. Test all the voltages at each circuit in the panel.

It sounds like a weak spot in the wiring failed before the fuse.

It is now likely the open that is preventing operation of the portions of the circuit.

Umm...I'm not sure we still know that "none of the fuses were blown." If the short that caused the problem still exists, just replacing the fuse with another is going to result in an instantly blown fuse. Sometimes it's not possible to tell by looking in those little windows that the link is blown either.

Thanks all for your replies. I don't think the fuse is the problem. Since my panel is not very well labeled, I've tested new fuses by switching all of them back and forth a few times. Everything was still working except the circuit where I did the short.

I'm thinking that I must now have an open circuit as some of you have suggested, but still couldn't find where it's opened. I don't think I have any backstab devices.

I suppose that I need to buy the gagdet that tells me if there's current and test every outlet and swtich on the affected circuit.

Otherwise, I'm thinking I should probably change my fuse box to a breaker panel.

I'm thinking that I must now have an open circuit as some of you have suggested, but still couldn't find where it's opened.

What have you done to try to find it?

Otherwise, I'm thinking I should probably change my fuse box to a breaker panel.

You do realize that won't solve the problem, right? But I guess if you are hiring an electrician to switch out the panel, he can easily find the problem with your circuit.

Fox and hound time (electronic signal tracer transmitter and receiver set).

An electronic signal generator (the 'fox') is attached to the lines at the panel, then a tracer (the 'hound') is used to follow the lines until the signal is lost.

What brand do you recommend brickeyee?
I was thinking of buying a set for fun but the Greenleee 1000 is super expensive.

so far I've gotten by tracing using an old fluke pro3000 tone tester kit. But that works when circuit is off not on - but has helped me trace a lot of wires.

I would love to have a good tester that works on a live circuit.

Ideal has some less expensive models.

The more expensive ones are often more rugged, sensitive, and have a sensitivity adjustment that makes them easier to use.

If the it senses on multiple breakers you dial back until it only indicates on one, then switch the breaker off and see if the unit stops sensing anything afte3r turning back to the highest setting.

Then use a meter to check the circuit before touching anything (NOT a 'non-contact' sensor).

fuse box? PULL the "main", and with the "main" still in your hand, turn it around and look at the hidden cartidrige fuses. Then do the same for the "range", and keep going, until you've checked them all. One of them blew. chances are, you'll looking for the one that partially turned to dust.

Wow, Norman The Newcomer has been busy helping with problems that surely were resolved long ago.

You never know ... Rikidoo never came back to tell us whether his problem had been solved so maybe he's been sitting in the dark for two years waiting for Norman's excellent reply. Now he can finally move on with his life.

A similar chain of events has happened to me a few times. Both times it was simply a GFCI that triggered to open the circuit, an easy fix. I put too much GFCI protection (one in each circuit), so it is easy to forget there IS a wall socket GFCI at the beginning of every loop. Press the button and all goes back on.