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| Hello everyone,
Allow me to explain what I am planning to do so that my questions make sense. I am planning the instal of a 12Kw standby generator. It will sit roughly 40 away from where it will be tied to the house panel through a Ronk DPDT transfer switch. My feed wires from the generator will be 6 Ga triple rated THHN/THWN-2/MTW. 3 appropriately colored conductors along with a bare copper 6 Ga ground. I will be running this underground through 2" sch 80 PVC conduit. Overkill on the conduit, but given the tiny price difference what the hey. My first question.
Second question.
Third question.
My fourth and final question.
For those that may wonder, I have been in touch with the utility companies and the local zoning department to determine if I can do the install myself. Basicly as long as I get the appropriate permit and have it inspected, I'm good. Anyway, thanks for bearing with me and thanks in advance. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Something I failed to mention that likely will not matter, but figured I should mention. The outlet on the 15 amp circuit I mentioned in question 1 and 2 will be used to supply power to a thermostaticly controlled battery heater and oil heater. This would be live no matter if we are on utility or standby power. |
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- Posted by ronnatalie (My Page) on Fri, Apr 15, 11 at 17:28
| One large ground is fine. Running the 15A circuit in with the larger one in the same conduit is fine. There's no code for coloring for low voltage stuff. |
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- Posted by petey_racer (My Page) on Sat, Apr 16, 11 at 8:43
| A #6 ground is way overkill. All that is needed is a #10. If it will make you feel better you can bump up to a #8, but it will serve NO other purpose. Also, the 2" sch80 is pretty absurd. It is not a matter if price. It is a matter of running and terminating it. You'll probably have to reduce down in size at some point any way. |
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| Make sure you remove and ground-neutral bond in the generator. |
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| Thanks for all the replies! My reason for running the #6 ground is that I already have it. If I didn't, I'd go with the #8 for sure. I know that code here does not require sch80, and my only reason to run 2" was ease of pulling the #6 conductors. If memory serves, the conduit fill calculator I checked specified 1" or 1 1/4" for 4 pieces of #6 and 2 of #12. That would indeed make termination easier. Maybe pulling the #6 through 1" or 1 1/4" won't be that difficult, I do not know. I have never pulled #6 through conduit before. I have not verified as of yet, but this generator was previously installed localy (same codes apply). I have yet to install the generator itself into the enclosure and reconnect the leads from the generator head. |
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| As a separately derived system the neutral and ground should be bonded one time in the disconnect for the generator and than kept separate in every other panel. Every panel after the generator disconnect is a sub-panel. |
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| Ok, I have the disconnect that came with the generator, but whoever removed it removed all of the internals. Basicly I have a metal box that says "Generator Disconnect". Why someone would have removed the internals puzzles me. But they also removed the key start switch for the set that was on the remote panel too. Would an appropriately rated disconnect of any kind work? Alternately, Given I have breakers that can be manualy operated on the generator and it will be feeding a DPDT switch, is the disconnect even needed? If it is, I have no issue buying what I need, just didn't see the reason it needed one. That said, I always assume that there is something I did not take into account. |
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