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ranger619

who can guess what was wrong??? good luck

ranger619
12 years ago

OK here is what you have to go on.....There is a 2 pole lighting contactor in a box which is turned on and off by a single pole switch. The contactor has 2 circuits feeding it and two switchlegs, each going out to parking lot lights from the contactor. YOU HAVE GOOD POWER FROM PANEL TO CONTACTOR LINE SIDE FOR THE LIGHTS YOU HAVE GOOD POWER 120 VOLTS TO THE SWITCH BOX. THE SWITCH HAS FROM THE "HOT" to GROUND 120 VOLTS. THE SWITCH HAS FROM THE SWITCHLEG TO GROUND 120 VOLTS "WITH THE SWITCH ON OF COURSE"... AT THE COIL YOU HAVE 120 VOLTS FROM THE LEFT LINE SIDE WIRE TO THE NUETRAL OF THE COIL. YOU ALSO HAVE 120 VOLTS FROM THE RIGHT SIDE LINE WIRE TO THE NUETRAL OF THE COIL. NOW! AT THE HOT SIDE OR SWITCHLEG ON THE COIL TO THE NUETRAL .. "WITH THE LIGHT SWITCH ON"... YOU GOT NOTHING! ( REMEMBER THAT THE WIRE LEAVING SWITCH TO THE COIL IS NOT DAMAGED AND YOU DO HAVE 120 VOLTS TO GROUND LEAVING SAID SWITCH! SO WHY DID THE COIL NOT PULL IN? BY THE WAY>>>ALL PARTS AND WIRES WHERE BRAND NEW AND THE COIL WAS CHECKED AT OUR SHOP BEFORE INSTALL BY ANOTHER PERSON> WHAT WAS WRONG? hint...It had nothing to do with the coil itslef ... GOOD LUCK>

Comments (14)

  • Ron Natalie
    12 years ago

    Why are you yelling?

  • brickeyee
    12 years ago

    Open contactor winding.

  • Ron Natalie
    12 years ago

    If the coil in the contactor is open, it should be easy to test for. Disconnect it and measure the resistance. It should be a small number (100 ohms) or so. High resistance shows it's indeed open. Inspect it carefully...sometimes a connection is burned between the coil terminals and the actual coil itself.

  • bus_driver
    12 years ago

    Some very old coils (solenoids) have a rubber bumper that cushions the "thump" when the solenoid is de-energized and the armature retracts. That rubber can deteriorate and become sticky, essentially gluing the armature to it and preventing it from moving when re-energized hours or days later. The adhering is not noticed when disassembling the unit. The bond occurs over a period of hours and does not happen when the unit is tested soon after reassembly. Silicone lube on the rubber or replacement is the cure.

  • kalining
    12 years ago

    I guess nobody reads any more. " all parts and wires were brand new and the coil was checked at out shop before install hint, it has nothing to do with the coil itself "

  • brickeyee
    12 years ago

    "I guess nobody reads any more. "

    It was to painful to even try and read all of.

    And "checked at out shop before install" does NOT mean the coil is still good.

  • kalining
    12 years ago

    Yah i see your point.

  • yosemitebill
    12 years ago

    Well, other than the fact that YOUR CAPS make everything difficult to read, it appears all your voltage checks reference unrelated circuits rather than those that are required to properly troubleshoot the problem.

    Switch circuit hot to ground - not the neutral?

    Contactor line voltages - measured to the switch circuit neutral?

    What if there were transformers involved, such as an isolation transformer on the switch circuit?

    I'm glad you found the problem but I can see why it may have taken a while.

  • ranger619
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    You guys need to lighten up a bit i made the bold type to make it a bit easier for the old farts to read..as for the problem... I gave you the right info so sorry you could not understand what the issue really was. This sight is not the end all be all for fixing everyones problems. Most of you are not "snobs" but many of you come off that way..get over yourselfs..I am sorry if this web page is your life. I mean you no harm. We all are here to help people and have fun as well...The problem with the contactor was this......The electrician who installed the wire from the switch to the coil, stripped off the end of the wire but when he pulled the strippers away the insulation stayed on the wire..so when he landed that wire under the coil screw it was obviously not making a good connection..I thought it was funny when I found it and he was not so happy, but we still had a beer later and joked about it...S@#T Happens...lol

  • texasredhead
    12 years ago

    I believe youe condescending attitude (old farts), is what turned everyone off, not to mention your inability to write in sentences. Many of us "snobs" are professioinal electricians who look forward to customers like you.

  • brickeyee
    12 years ago

    "i made the bold type to make it a bit easier for the old farts to read"

    It is NOT easier to read. it is harder.

    It is also the equivalent of shouting.

  • ranger619
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    no offense, but I didnt care. My post was just for fun.. You have been on this site for a long time, I have as well. I just dont get on the site that often cause I am too busy. You have read plenty of my "sound" advice under other names. I try to help people if I can by giving them solid advice. I have been in the electrical trade for 20 years now and if people don't like my advice or help, then they can choose not to take or use it. Its all good. You guys just need to lighten up a bit on one another. We are all just trying to help the " average Jo "

  • texasredhead
    12 years ago

    What a marvelous person. Now he's sending me nasty e-mails.

  • llaatt22
    12 years ago

    He sounds problematic. You might want to fill out a complaint form at the bottom of the page to get him kicked off the forums.

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