In most cases a factory assembled photocell controlled light fixture shouldn't be used with a CF, because the controller never really turns the light on 100%. It also mucks about with the waveform of the AC. This can cause CFs to overheat and fail, sometimes in a rather dramatic manner.

If the fixture is suited to use with fluorescent (CF) loads, this will be stated in the installation instructions.

Your safest solution will probably be to select a good quality conventional fixture you like, and power it from a fluorescent-compatible (hard contact) photocell in a separate box.

The photocell box can be located high on the outside wall, or even on another wall of the house (best if it faces north), so it's not too obtrusive.

A photocell with suitable capacity can power more than one fixture if you like.

Hi Shannon,

I've experienced the same problem. My fixture is also 60 watt max but my electrician told me that the photo cell drops the current to the lamp and that is why an ordinary 60 watt bulb is not as bright. I switched to 75 watt and now it is the brightness of a 60 watt (have had no problems with overheating).
And davidr is right. The CFL's do not work well with the photocell, then again they don't work properly outside period.

requirement of photocell based street lighting ON and OFF control

Many of the photocell sensors use a Triac to switch the light on and off (the same thing as a conventional dimmer).

Even when fully on the Triac still drops a small voltage and distorts the voltage and current waveforms.

If you can find a CFL that is rated to operate on a conventional Triac dimmer it should work.