The diagram is fine. As it mentioned, the NEC 2011 wants a neutral at most switches. NEC 2014 has backed off from the hard requirement for some locations or if you can easily retrofit a neutral later. Do you NEED one? Not unless you want to use some fancy dimmer or timer that wants one.

You didn't say where you are at. You might be in a locality that is still NEC 2008 based or perhaps you local county/city has some local exception.

Alright, thanks. Do you have a diagram handy that doesn't use 14/3? In other words, just a switch loop? It's almost impossible to find this type of diagram -- mainly because I don't need a split switched receptacle. The whole thing will be switched, so it's simpler. But it's also less common.

Forgot to mention: I don't need a neutral; it'll just be a standard switch.

14-3 is best practice with that you keep all the colors on the wires right the other way to do it is to run a 14-2 splice the I the outlet to the white ran to the switch and put the black from the switch onto the outlet an dont break any tabs on the outlet. Use the existing neutral in the outlet for the outlet. So when your done the only black on the outlet is from the switch. On the switch tie the black on one screw and the white on the other. The white is not a neutral in the switch it is now your hot because you tie it into the hots in the outlet not the neutral. The neutrals stay at the outlet at all times in this scenario.

For 14-2, just use the black and white as the switch loop. Put some black tape on the white wire to indicate that it isn't a neutral wire.

@jreagan

Right, I know what to do at the switch. But how do I wire up the outlet to make both top and bottom switched?

The link you posted has the diagram you want. If you use the 14-2, instead of using the black/red, you'll be using the back/white-marked-with-tape pair. Power goes to the switch on the white-marked-with-tape, comes back to the receptacle on the black and connects to the darker screws.

When you install the outlet only used the wire that comes off the switch on the hot screws don't use the power from the outlet box if there was a half switch outlet there before you will need a new one. To half switc an outlet you need to break of a little tab if it is already broken you will need a new one

jreagan, sorry, I'm still unclear on what it looks like at the receptacle. Is it possible you could draw a diagram of it? I'd rather look at a picture and be able to conceptually understand it. Thanks.

Simply replace the red with the white.

If you're installing new you should run a neutral (14-3) to the switch. That's the code now for all practical purposes.

I agree with ronnatalie on the 3 wire. But to be honest I'm not trying to be rude but if you don't understand what we are telling you, you should prob call an electrician. This is as basic as it gets in the electric field. Don't underestimate electricity it's dangerous and if your not sure you should call someone who is.